Jump to content
SAU Community

Running No Boost Controller On New Setup

R33GOD

By R33GOD,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33GOD Grand Master

R33GOD

Posted
Posted

hey guys

just wondering if i can run my car with no boost controller with my hks adjustable actuator?

my hiflow should be getting fixed soon and i dont want the hassle of getting caught with a boost controller.

i have heard that u can but being an internal gated turbo how much boost spike do you tend to get. or boost creep? (on my r33gtst)

much appreciated.

i did a search but couldnt find the answer i was looking for

thanks

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You should be right running of an upgraded actuator, you'll only see the boost that the actuator is set too however.

It might taper off a little in the top end where a EBC might help hold boost

It might also build boost a little slower

But that are only a might, its not a certainty to occur, you might be totally fine :banana:

green 33 Explorer

green 33

Posted
Posted

I have done this on other turbo engines with adjustable actuator, but not a skyline, basically the tightness (or preload) on the actuator will determine your max boost, the only big problem is if the line blows off the inlet pipe the actuator will keep the wastegut shut and you can overboost.

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

From experience...while these adjustable actuators do give some boost control...you still want a proper boost controller to hold the wastegate shut till you reach the desired level of boost...if not you'll have the wastegate creeping open as you build boost...set up properly a proper boost controller will give better response and also more midrange...

DjeMz Mentor

DjeMz

Posted
Posted

im running boost of the actuator..

on 16psi spikes to around 17-18 then drops..

when it was on 18psi spiked to 20psi :S

also feels a little laggy, can i get an ebc or do i have to get a stock r33actuator for the hks 2535?

green 33 Explorer

green 33

Posted
Posted
also feels a little laggy, can i get an ebc or do i have to get a stock r33actuator for the hks 2535?

Boost controller is definately way to go, just remember though your lowest boost setting will always be dependant on how the actuator is set, so you could loosen off your actuator to the 7psi mark, then with the boost controller you can set your high mark at whatever you want.

Would have to reccommend the gizmo IBC as it is simple to use, has 4 settings, with gain control and controls the boost really well. definately improve your lag factor

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

With the HKS adjustable actuators i think the lowest you can go is around 14psi...from there you can use a boost controller to raise the boost...remember...you want to keep the wastegate shut while you build boost to the required level before it opens...thats where the response and surge of midrange comes from...

At 18psi peak boost for example a car will make the same power but if you hold the wastegate shut till max boost you build boost quicker and hence fatten up the midrange...its all about area under the curve...

DjeMz Mentor

DjeMz

Posted
Posted
Boost controller is definately way to go, just remember though your lowest boost setting will always be dependant on how the actuator is set, so you could loosen off your actuator to the 7psi mark, then with the boost controller you can set your high mark at whatever you want.

Would have to reccommend the gizmo IBC as it is simple to use, has 4 settings, with gain control and controls the boost really well. definately improve your lag factor

With the HKS adjustable actuators i think the lowest you can go is around 14psi...from there you can use a boost controller to raise the boost...remember...you want to keep the wastegate shut while you build boost to the required level before it opens...thats where the response and surge of midrange comes from...

At 18psi peak boost for example a car will make the same power but if you hold the wastegate shut till max boost you build boost quicker and hence fatten up the midrange...its all about area under the curve...

EmreA-Dyno03-03-2007.jpg

ok so set the hks actuator to as low as possible then get a ebc (dont have cash for profec b right now, ill search gizzmo) and set that to say 17-18ish..

would i need to get a retune?

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

You do not necessarily need to set the HKS actuator to as low as possible...i would use it to help control the spiking...if your boost is spiking too much then it would help to lengthen the actuator arm slightly...and if boost response is slow...then i would shorten the arm slightly as it probably shows its opening too soon...its a finicky process but once set about right then you're ready to use a boost controller of some sort to raise the boost...that way you'll get better boost control...

On a side note...i run the same turbo (HKS2535 on my rb20 and t makes about 220rwkw)...your peak power is definitely higher but i noticed that your power starts to climb alittle slower than mine even though mine's an rb20...not saying that anythings wrong but it might be worth looking into...something might be holding it back perhaps...

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Ozdavroz
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      I don't believe I posted pictures of the second oil pump pickup I added so here they are. Data shows it gets oil pressure up to the relief pressure much earlier in the RPM. Is that important? Not likely... This was just another attempt to fix the bearing issues.   I also heavily opened up the inlet to the pump since it now had to flow oil from two pickups. I believe the diameter increased about 1/8".
×
×
  • Create New...