Jump to content
SAU Community

Coilovers For My Mr30

PIG-510

By PIG-510,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

PIG-510 Newbie

PIG-510

Posted
Posted

Hey guys my names josh and i'm a newbie to the site but was wonder if you guys could help me i'm trying to get information on whether s13 coilovers will fit into my 85 mr30 and if so wat mods need to be undertaken or do they simply slot in there any help would be appreciated

thanks josh.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197490-coilovers-for-my-mr30/
Share on other sites
rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted

what you need is the S-13 coilovers themselves, s-13 hubs and try to get the matching brakes/rotors for the s-13 unless you want to go to r32-34 items ( re-drilled rotors to 4-stud with larger rims needed)

optional items: s-13 tie rod end ball joints re pressed into your r30 items, r30 adj strut tops suited to the coilovers you get, s-13 adj tops have to be reversed so you loose most of the -chamber adjustment.

they all just bolt in using the r30 Lower control arms, but you have to wind out your steering rack ends and get a wheel alighment..

PIG-510 Newbie

PIG-510

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks rsx84 yeah that helps alot as my mate has a set of used coilovers from his s13 and i can get those for $200 but i wont be able to get the hubs and rotors is that a problem or will i still have to buy the hubs and rotors and arte the adjustable strut tops for a r30 hard to get or will someone like just jap have them

Thanks josh.........

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted
Thanks rsx84 yeah that helps alot as my mate has a set of used coilovers from his s13 and i can get those for $200 but i wont be able to get the hubs and rotors is that a problem or will i still have to buy the hubs and rotors and arte the adjustable strut tops for a r30 hard to get or will someone like just jap have them

Thanks josh.........

it can't be done without the hubs as the s-13 use seperate hubs and shocks..

the strut tops don't have to be changed as they fit but only allow a small amount of chamber adj using s-13 tops, if you are wanting lots of chamber then look into cusco r30 strut tops...

you can just see here where the coilover bolts to the hub if the brake line wasn't in the way.

gts2015-1.jpg

skybt1 Community Regular

skybt1

Posted
Posted
what you need is the S-13 coilovers themselves, s-13 hubs and try to get the matching brakes/rotors for the s-13 unless you want to go to r32-34 items ( re-drilled rotors to 4-stud with larger rims needed)

optional items: s-13 tie rod end ball joints re pressed into your r30 items, r30 adj strut tops suited to the coilovers you get, s-13 adj tops have to be reversed so you loose most of the -chamber adjustment.

they all just bolt in using the r30 Lower control arms, but you have to wind out your steering rack ends and get a wheel alighment..

I was told that you cannot repress s13 tie rod end ball joints into r30 ones.

To make the r30 tie rod ends fit the s13 ones you can counter sink a hole in the top which enables you

to get the nut down enough onto the tie rod end so you can get the split pin through.

Only has to be drilled a about 3mm.

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted
I was told that you cannot repress s13 tie rod end ball joints into r30 ones.

To make the r30 tie rod ends fit the s13 ones you can counter sink a hole in the top which enables you

to get the nut down enough onto the tie rod end so you can get the split pin through.

Only has to be drilled a about 3mm.

whats funny with the s-13 tie rod end and r30 tie rods ends is that they look exactly the same it's just the s-13 items are tapered to slot into the hubs, and the thread is wrong direction to just bolt them onto the r30 rack ends.

i never worried as i never went with the coilovers in the r30, i put them in but never drove the car with them in. you could just put the king nut on upside down??

skybt1 Community Regular

skybt1

Posted
Posted
i never worried as i never went with the coilovers in the r30, i put them in but never drove the car with them in. you could just put the king nut on upside down??

Im not sure? Never thought if putting it upside down. I think it will still miss as it will go on too much missing the hole again.

Its an easy fix anyway. Counter sink a hole just about 3mm down. Then it will fit perfectly. Easiest way i worked out.

Retaining the r30 tie rod ends.

skybt1 Community Regular

skybt1

Posted
Posted

the conversion is easy enough to do withough any hassle. Only thing is waiting for the right hubs at the right

price.

i managed to pick up a set of hubs, sr20det calipers and discs, s13 rear discs with s15 rear calipers for $150!!!

Check the nissansilvia forums. there are always guys doing s14/s15 5 stud conversions selling their s13 gear!

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted
u could cut and weld the coilover to the strut so keep the std brake/hub set up. save stuffin around with s13 hubs etc. but yea stuck with crap brakes...

to do that right would cost more than the hubs, a lot of stresses go through the struts and you don't want that the crack going around a corner..

you be better off getting r31 struts and having the threaded sleves welded on to convert them to height adj with some good shock incerts.

what you got to think about is "why s-13 coilovers" what do you want them for:

height adj - for about 400 you can get height adj kits from Noltec / cusco, $500 a bloke on ebay will send you a front set of struts already made with springs and adj strut tops, $800 and they come with new incerts, These are for and r31 but the only difference to the r30 struts is they are shorter by 30-40mm...you would have to get a set of r31 rotors and calipars but they are bigger and better then the r30 items so thats a plus...

OUTATIME Community Regular

OUTATIME

Posted
Posted (edited)

i was gonna do it my self so work out cheap as. dw i no what im doin lol.

could use z31 struts their shorter then the r31s by 1 or 2" i found out when put them into my r31. also get nice brake upgrade.

gerryb on s12 site has done it in his s12 im pretty sure. but yea would have 2 go coilover sleve kit of course cos dont think it would fit in the strut tower, spring is even wider then the r31s.

thing on re pressed ball joints, heard couple of stories of them coming out. think thats how bigjc guy stacked his r30. is there a different way?

cheers...

Edited by OUTATIME

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...