Jump to content
SAU Community

I Want More Acceleration

DECIM8

By DECIM8,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DECIM8 Grand Master

DECIM8

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Ok I just wrote a Essay and the stupid I.E shut down so here I go again;

Ive got a R34 GTT with the following:

Trust HG FMIC

SBC I.D 3 - Running 10psi - gain 7-8

Safc Neo

Full exhaust, split dump, high flow catco, 3.5inch catback and 4" cannon.

CAI with apexi Pod

Greddy Coilovers type S and sways

Now the thing is really built for tight cornering, hard acceleration and Red light launching. My tune all changed that, its spring was cut down after its tune, more top end less accleration ;) pitty really cause thats what I like.

Now I figure ive got a few options,

Get the Safc re-tuned as it has been tuned in easy mode and the $200 I spent on it being tuned was not worth it, Use pro mode and its 500rpm intervals to give it abit more edge down low? I feel the safc changes are effecting the timing and without a sitc to change ignition im not going to achive the accleration I want.

Hook up a nice EMU like the Greddy Emanage and milk out the right tune with optional ignition and injector lead all for the same price as a new safc neo. Which may I add I might have for sale soon. depending on what people advise.

Buy a powerfc and go all out, main reason this appeals to me is the knock is shown onscreen and I know im not blowing up my engine. The shit side is that its so expensive and I also dont have a need or want at this period in time to bolt on a bullshit turbo setup.

Now to those who had the emu hooked up, how much did it set you back for install and tune? and also to a power fc guys how much am I looking at for a tune?

And what do people think I should do to get that, V-TEC YO! feel?

Thanks in advance :wave:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197536-i-want-more-acceleration/
Share on other sites
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

Nathaniel, I'm not sure what your question was so :domokun:

Your future choice of management depends on what your doing with the car in the future (surprise surprise)

If the cars almost how you like it, power wise, then use a cheaper, limited option; piggy back, eManage and try and get some of that "spring back" you talk of.

If u know you want to really fly, then clearly get PFC, Haltech, Autronic plug in.

Generally, tidy up tune is $200 - $400, and a full tune $500 - $1000.

Call local tuners for solid pricing.

Paul GTS Explorer

Paul GTS

Posted
Posted

PMSL.

When I went from standard management up to the power fc it made a huge difference to the feel of the engine, way more responsive and faster at a lower boost pressure.

I would recommend getting one of these as they are great bits of kit. Then get a HKS turbo for even more grin factor!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...