Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just trying to brainstorm some ideas, for a mate of a mate of a mate. Quick background, its a series 2 gtst motor thats been put into a hq ute, should be a lot of fun once its done. The car is about 3hrs drive away, and i havent seen its since he put the motor in and hes being ringin me every second day with problems, mainly electrical and its come to the point where he is going to tow the car up to my place so i can check it out, which im not really looking foward to. The car is running a powerfc (brand new), and the harness was modifed to suit the hq by a mob over east who apparently has done this conversion before, but some of the things they have done to the harness that hes told me about doesnt fill me with confidence. Anyhoo the car is also running a z32 afm and q45 throttle body. He has told me he has selected z32 under the afm menu on the powerfc so that should be fine.

Now to the problem at hand. He's telling me that he getting no postive and signal voltages from the throttle body, and the car is running like shit and wont rev over 2 grand. I told him to measure the voltage straight out of the ecu pinout to cancel any chance of the harness being the culprit, still no voltage, which concerns me cause i dont know of any reasons why the ecu wont put out a voltage to the throttle body, on either tps pinouts (postive, signal). He tries swapping out the powerfc with the stock ecu, and still no voltage sent out to the tps. So i was just wondering what you guys think might stop an ecu from sending out the tps voltage?? Hopefully the harness isnt screwed and fried the ecu, because now the car wont even start at all. It cranks and cranks but nothing. Its giving injector pulses to the injectors so thats all good, and its got spark (which he tells me looks a tad weak, but should be enought to start) so its got me stumped.

I suppose ill find out in a couple of weeks whats going on when he brings it up here, its always hard describing problems over the phone, then over the net haha.

cheers for any help

heres some pics of the ute i was working on

DSC01699.jpg

08032008_002_.jpg

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197581-no-tps-voltage-from-ecu/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Ok the bloke just dropped the car off to me this afternoon and im chasing some opinons.

I have check each pinout of the harness from the ecu end to the the sensor plugs themselves and everthing matches up, no breaks in the wire. The ecu is getting all the power it needs (all pinouts measured), and is getting its earth.

Now, this is were it gets really weird. On the stock ecu the car will start and run, but since the z32 afm isnt tuned for it it wont rev over 2k rpm, but thats fine. There is tps power (5volts) and signal (.5V on close) and earth.

With the powerfc pluged in, it will barely start, and if it does, it dies shortly after. The afm has been changed in the menu so thats fine but the tps voltage magically disappears (hence it running like crap). No constant 5V, no signal, but this only occurs on the powerfc. On the hand controller it comes up highlighted that its a problem in the sensor section and reads 0V.

So to all the powerfc wizzes out there, why will the stock ecu send out a tps power but the powerfc wont. Nothing else changes, just the ecu.

Any help would be appricated.

debug this with the std throttle body - you have changed too many things, new loom, different car, different t/b, different ECU and so on.

go and get the std throttle body - put it on and debug. once you clear the issue. then refit the q45 t/b. i bet the issue is with the t/b

using the stock ecu and q45 t/b as a debug point woudlnt provide useful results i would expect so dont bother

cheers for the replies fellas.

unfortunately i cant use the stock throttle body cause he put on a greddy intake plenum and doesnt have a adaptor. Using a multimeter i've set the closed postion of the pts to .5V according to the workshop manual (of course this is only with the stock ecu, the powerfc doesnt do anything)

I've made a up a harness that will drop the battery power of 12volts to 5 volts so i'm going to try that and run a direct 5 volts to the throttle body and see if the powerfc likes it, i just hope by me running an external 5volts its not going to fry it.

With the airflow meter side of things, his stock one was broken in the halfcut, thats why he has a z32, but on the powerfc theres not fault codes for it and it looks ok.

My next step is getting a stock series 2 afm out of my bros car and wire it into his car, then just plug the standard ecu in and see if it runs (i think thats the only reason why it doesnt run smooth now, it would be fine with the tps, just not the z32 afm). If its all sweet if plug the powerfc in, and if it still acts like a piece of shit, then it has to be a faulty powerfc even though its brand new.

About 2months ago he sent up all his harness (he lives a while away) and i checked each pinout. He also sent up his powerfc and i put that in my bros car and it worked fine, so i assumed it was fine.

I was reading through the powerfc FAQ, and its says that there have been cases were the stock ecu will work but the powerfc wont, purely because of some engine control fuse(if its disconnected the stock ecu will work, not powerfc). Has anyone heard of this before?

Keep the posts coming with ideas :laugh:

cheers

Edited by R34GTFOUR

yeah there are some known issues where the PFC wont work but the stock ecu will when doing engine swap style changes - its in the FAQ

with the AFM and TPS connected up, turn the car to ON, but don't start it

on the hand controller goto ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

AFM-1 should be like 1.0v or somewhere there - and it shouldnt move

TPS should be 0.33v or like 0.35v - and it shouldnt move - should move when you mash the accel pedal

if either of these arent reading like that, the car wont run/start correctly

also the q45 throttle body is running a r33 gtst series 1 tps (series 2 are different and dont fit....)

ALSO THIS IS IMPORTANT:

when you buy powerfc's, you have to tell them if its for a series 1 or 2. I understand that this is just setting you change over. Its definately a series 2 motor and powerfc, but the only r33 skylines i have access to atm are series 1. When i check this in a series 1, will i have to change anything?

thanks again

yeah there are some known issues where the PFC wont work but the stock ecu will when doing engine swap style changes - its in the FAQ

with the AFM and TPS connected up, turn the car to ON, but don't start it

on the hand controller goto ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

AFM-1 should be like 1.0v or somewhere there - and it shouldnt move

TPS should be 0.33v or like 0.35v - and it shouldnt move - should move when you mash the accel pedal

if either of these arent reading like that, the car wont run/start correctly

tps is 0v, the main power feed from the powerfc to the tps goes missing so thats why there is no signal aswell, yet a plug the stock ecu and i'll get a constant 5v feed and my idle postion is .5v. Its doing my head in...

On the powerfc, it highlights the tps, so its got a problem with it, even though the actual tps is off a r33 skyline

afm is reading 3volts with ignition on but not started, i cant get it running long enough on the powerfc to see anything.

3v is too high for the AFM not running - unplug it and see if it starts and idles

theres no such thing as different model PFC to suit series 1 or 2 - its the same unit and theres no option to choose between s1 or s2

3v is too high for the AFM not running - unplug it and see if it starts and idles

theres no such thing as different model PFC to suit series 1 or 2 - its the same unit and theres no option to choose between s1 or s2

sweet, thanks again for the quick replys, appricate it

I'll try that, but it still doesnt explain why the tps power wouldnt be there. I'm just ging to stick a stock afm so at least that "cancels" out and chance of that being a problem aswell.

With the z32 afm, do you definately use the vg30 selection under airflow? Its the option ontop of the VH45 (which i would assume is for a q45 afm)

ok just a quick update,

i've wired in the stock r33 afm, set the tps on the q45 throttle body to .4V on fully closed and connected the stock ecu and VRRROOOOM. The thing starts, idles, revs, it does what it should :laugh:

Then the spanner is thrown into the works...

I connected the powerfc, I havent changed anything but the ecu, and now no tps voltage

Im going to test the powerfc on another skiz in the next hour or so, but im still scratching my head. I'm really keen to find out why its doing what it is doing.

If the powerfc turns out fine, then im just going to run a 5volt positive to the throttlebody on a external line.

any other ideas?

I just tried starting it on the powerfc, seems to run fine, its revs freely but it just idles too high (and still shows no tps voltage)

also on a side note (and i doubt this will affect it, but who knows..)

The owner has installed a speco tacho, it will read fine on the power fc, but plug the stock ecu and it wont pick up at all. The feed has just been tapped into the harness where the tacho pinout is on the ecu so its the same for both ecu's. Its another weird thing...

where there is no TPS signal the PFC goes into protect mode and kicks the idle rpm to 1500RPM

i took the powerfc out and tested it on my bros skiz and it didnt give out a tps power, so the powerfc is buggered for some reason.

I got my bros powerfc and plugged it into the hq ute and guess what? its got tps power, so its definately the orginal powerfc thats got a problem, its not the car.

Anyway i started it up, still with the standard afm and it purred like kitten haha, so i though i would stick the z32 afm back on...

THEN...

The car idles rough as guts and the afm voltage is at 3volts, so its way off. I selected the correct setting for airflow meter setting on the powerfc, but it still reads 3volts. I checked, then re-check then double checked again the wiring going to the afm and its correct. So why would the afm give out a false reading?

Im going to try and clean it, but whats the chance of this guy having all these things wrong, and ALSO have a busted afm?

thanks

I know this sounds silly.. BUT i got stuck with it before.

check the power fc where it pluggs into the loom, sometimes it does not go in all the way on the edges and it can cause this problem. It has happened to me before.

If you can see a gap on the ends of the plugs where it plugs in then id undo it and re-connect it, its a good idea to screw the 10ml bolt in 2 turns and then press down on both sides and repeat untill its all the way down.

If this fix's your problem then good, if not then it would be a good idea to check this next time you have any issues anyway.

where there is no TPS signal the PFC goes into protect mode and kicks the idle rpm to 1500RPM

Thats because you dint fill out your TPS report correctly

post-338-1204956484_thumb.jpg

Sorry, I couldn't resist....I will leave now on the basis i have no helpful information to your problem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to it's full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so damn hot in there, that made it all the more easy to remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...