Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to replace my tail lights with the cooktop/ hot plate tail lights.i'm thinkin there must be importers out there who visit wrecking yards for parts. Is this so and does anyone know which company may do this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197753-importing-c210-skyline-panels/
Share on other sites

http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m49116431

Should be about $130 + shipping and commission

and the centres to go with them:

http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m51270337

$20ish plus postage etc.

PM Laurence He'll be able to buy em and ship them out of japan for you.

http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m49116431

Should be about $130 + shipping and commission

and the centres to go with them:

http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m51270337

$20ish plus postage etc.

PM Laurence He'll be able to buy em and ship them out of japan for you.

Thanks very muchly f/m, getting info like this from the likes of yourself is what makes this site sooo good. I'm hooked on the idea of these lights and will pursue this avenue. Excuse my ignorance but how do I get hold of Laurence. PM is.....???? sorry is he someone on this site?

lol all good, Laurence is one the members on the forum and a resident in japan who buys gear of yahoo auctions for people. PM = private message, which you'll be taken to if you click the link on "PM Laurence". Hope that helps :blink:

Those estimates I posted are very rough and will vary with exchange rate, but they should be in that ballpark.

Im pretty sure that the first link for Yahoo Japan is an auction for headlight surrounds.

Those tail-lights on ebay are out of control. Up to $610 already. Bloody hell.

That's madness! some people must really hate, loath and despise the choc block tail lights. Sure enough they aint sexy, but I can think of plenty better ways to spend that sort of money. For a week or 2 you'd wanna be driving behind your car admiring them and convincing yourself they were worth the small fortune you paid for them, Perhaps they'll increase the value of the car, who knows?

Still haven't heard from Laurence,perhaps he saw those lights on ebay and is flat out rumaging through wreckers yards or doing night raids on street parked C210's, LOL.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Give it 40psi and send it to the moon
    • I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.
    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
×
×
  • Create New...