Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

^^ Nah he's serious, have a read of his other threads. *shakes head*

Thien, you cant get the sound of venting to atmosphere without the problems that come along with it, unless you change over to an ecu that does not use an AFM.

Thanks mate... and yeah, I'm not too technically-minded when it comes to all this stuff... silly me...

I guess, I'll have to live with it then.... either lose the sound or have the sound with stalling issues.

Thanks mate.

Would a 50/50 plumb back BOV work?

if you really want the psssht, try full atmo on a hybrid type bov. if it gives you trouble in full atmo (which plenty of skylines run without issue) then go 50/50. you should be fine. if that fails, you can always set it up as fully plumbed.

for the guy that asked earlier how its done:

fully plumbed = block one side, attached other to recirc hose.

50/50 = trumpet on one side, other side to recirc hose.

fully atmo = block recirc, use 1 or 2 trumpets on bov

here's mine 50/50

post-29392-1197881136_thumb.jpg

fully plumbed back, as it is now, . the trumpet is replaced with a supplied cap from GFB

post-29392-1197881169_thumb.jpg

btw, if it didnt come with the car, i highly doubt i would've needed or bought it.

Edited by Munkyb0y
if you really want the psssht, try full atmo on a hybrid type bov. if it gives you trouble in full atmo (which plenty of skylines run without issue) then go 50/50. you should be fine. if that fails, you can always set it up as fully plumbed.

for the guy that asked earlier how its done:

fully plumbed = block one side, attached other to recirc hose.

50/50 = trumpet on one side, other side to recirc hose.

fully atmo = block recirc, use 1 or 2 trumpets on bov

here's mine 50/50

post-29392-1197881136_thumb.jpg

fully plumbed back, as it is now, . the trumpet is replaced with a supplied cap from GFB

post-29392-1197881169_thumb.jpg

btw, if it didnt come with the car, i highly doubt i would've needed or bought it.

Is it just me, is does it seem that most people don't give two hoots about BOV's... and don't car about the ssshhtttt sound... would it be fair to say that everyone is over this?

Or is it due to stalling issues which is common in R33's?

where can you get that done? whats is actually changed?

It's dodgey mate.

you take your stock bov off.

and put it in a VISE.

then crush it a little.

this preloads the spring that is in it which makes it hold more pressure as it takes more pressure to push the spring.

it doesn't actually make any more sound though.

Is it just me, is does it seem that most people don't give two hoots about BOV's... and don't car about the ssshhtttt sound... would it be fair to say that everyone is over this?

Or is it due to stalling issues which is common in R33's?

Yes that is correct.

we give no shit for bov sound.

put the stocker on there and stop talking about it.

its true

i also give very little shit for the sound, so i ordered the cap from gfb to block the fuccker off.

i remember driving a 300zx with twin super dooper trumpet ultra mega farkoff bovs. i was over it in 20 mins. i mean even at 2k it was going AAAAAPPSHCOOOO. enough already, i just wanna drive.

Mate, have a think about what youre asking.

Why would you want to modify your car in a way where the *only* benefit will be more noise (which will in turn give you more attention from police), and the downside to it is that it can and almost always will make your car run worse? (In the case of vehicles running airflow metres)

Your stock one does its job, which is to prolong turbocharger life, not make noise.

Dont but an atmospheric one, its pure wank and a waste of money.

DONT PUT THE STOCKER BACK ON MAN.

buy an AEM quality plumb back bov. stockers are shit. they leak and fail to seal. think about it.

what would u do if u were pushed up and down BILLIONS of simes :S

Thanks mate... and yeah, I'm not too technically-minded when it comes to all this stuff... silly me...

I guess, I'll have to live with it then.... either lose the sound or have the sound with stalling issues.

Thanks mate.

Would a 50/50 plumb back BOV work?

No it will not work.

Your AFM measures how much air is going into the engine, the ecu then uses that measuement of air going in to work out hom much fuel put in.

When you put on a BOV that vents air back to atmosphere (makes thats loud pschhh) your computer (thinking the air is still in the engine) puts in way too much fuel. This results in stalling, stuttering, big black exhaust smoke and a generally shithouse driving experience.

A 50/50 BOV still dumps 50% of the air that the ecu expects, so it still causes a problem. Just leave it stock FFS!

*On a side note I changed my spark plugs on the weekend and forgot to put the BOV return pipe back on, as i changed gears i got the atmo bov noise. But it made the car feel so sluggish on gear changes, spat so much black smoke I cant imagine how anyone could deal with that just for a little ghey sound*

DONT PUT THE STOCKER BACK ON MAN.

buy an AEM quality plumb back bov. stockers are shit. they leak and fail to seal. think about it.

what would u do if u were pushed up and down BILLIONS of simes :S

This is twice I've seen you post this bad advice.

what is AEM?

stock bovs are rubbish, leaking heaps of shit, done a trip 2 brissy other weekend, running stock bov, f**kin heap of shit leaking the whole time on light throttle could hear it just in vacum, so fkn annoying

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...