Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 149
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

stock bovs are rubbish, leaking heaps of shit, done a trip 2 brissy other weekend, running stock bov, f**kin heap of shit leaking the whole time on light throttle could hear it just in vacum, so fkn annoying

That information is WAY off..

hmmmmmmm... just thinking y u would think a piece of machinery that has been moving up and down billions of times could never break down, loose its seal...

it makes sense tho. u love dose pipes. so how could u know.

the GFB Stealth-FX is either a full atmo or plumb-back bov, fits the gtst engine no probs

you can adjust it to say 10% atmo and 90% plumb-back

I have one, it is near new and I will sell it soon (repaired the stnd bov)

I run it on my auto rb25det on full plumb-back and it sounds, well, not too bad.

never stalled the engine with it on either, but when you take the foot off the accelerator you can hear the reveberation from the released air hitting between the turbo and the afm.

hmmmmmmm... just thinking y u would think a piece of machinery that has been moving up and down billions of times could never break down, loose its seal...

it makes sense tho. u love dose pipes. so how could u know.

Nice theory.

and it's good to see that you're brain is at least trying to work.

do me a favour.

ask the brain of yours this question, and then type up the dribble that it gives you.

ready?

"How does a blow off valve work?"

lets hear it?

Edited by GTST

ok..

I'll get you started.

bov has a piston in it.

this piston stays closed, then opens to let the air in the intake out.

it also has a small vacuum line entry point.

bov is placed on the Turbo side of the throttle body.

the vacuum line to the bov gets it's reading from the PLENUM side of the throttle body.

now you take over and explain how it all works.

No googling now.

wish i had the last 3 minutes of my life back.

leave the standard one on.

do a search man..

aparently it is WELL documented that the stock ones are shit and that a good AEM (which is a UNIVERSALLY USED Acronym of rAftermarket Equipment Manufacturer - don't you know anything) bovs are the way to go..

and I can give you your 3 minutes back if you like.

I can travel back in time and take you with me if you like..

I saw a little asian guy do it by shutting his eyes and trying really hard to fart.. then pop.. he disapears and re-apears in the another time..

you want in?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...