Jump to content
SAU Community

Choosing a 200rwKw Clutch

Roy13
 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I'm running a 30% increased organic clutch from Extreme or soemthing..

This is it here..... http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/ck07.asp

With decent grip launching at 4500rpm slipping the clutch to regulate wheelspin causes the clutch to slip, when I click second the slip will cause it to rev to redline.

I guess the organic is simply fading and doing similiar to what brake pads do.

This started happening around 1 month after owning the clutch and fitting 225 50' Simex tyres with lowish tyre pressure. The Simex tyres have a really soft sidewall that makes them grip unbelievably in the dry.

It still is fine if I don't slip it and will spin second gear up no problems if I slap the gear with any tyre's other than the Simex's.

Third gear is also possible to chirp so it is decent just doesn't like to be slipped.

Roy13 Enthusiast

Roy13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Joel you are a legend this is the clutch i was thinking of getting! I think you are right slipping isn't good for fibre's i've a R33 and i slip it at 2700rpm to launch and held it a bit too long at a set of lights 'the end'.

What sort of rwkw's does you car have?

Did you catch my reply in the "Still no one running LT-12's yet thread".

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

fly%20light.jpg

This is the UAS flywheel i have.

and

GTR_R32_Clutch_kit_4130.jpg

This is the UAS clutch. Your welcome to have a drive to see what you think, its pretty grabby, but after 2 years and plenty of track work it hasnt let me down.

In the R32 GTSt you can use the GTR clutch, are R33s the same. If so have you considered an original Nissan clutch.

Clint32 Mentor

Clint32

Posted
Posted

I have a extreme extra heavy duty cusioned ceramic clutch and i could not recommend a better clutch, its 100% drivable on the street no problems at all. And it has held 235rwkw with decent tyres on the drag strip for many passes. Still looks good with over 2mm wear after about 2 years of use, if you plan on giving your car a hard time and can afford it go for it.

PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
Posted

For me the driveability of the 5 puck Brass button is fine.....not as smooth as your standard one obviously...but no where near as bad as some of the horror stories you will no doubt hear.

It has 3200lb of clamping pressure, and clutch weight has increased, but I found it to light in standard form anyway.

Basically with the brass buttons the more buttons you have the less savage it will drive, with cushioned Button clutches being probably the best compromise and costing around $150 more than the $480 I paid.

The only time it really becomes apparent you are driving a Button clutch is really on takeoffs and on down changes, but you soon get the hang of it, i find double clutching on the downchange allows smooth changes when you just want to drive sedately :)

I have never had one wear or break :)

Roy13 Enthusiast

Roy13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Clint32 is your clutch the one RPM in adelade sell that has 100% more clamp, a full face plate with a purple pressure plate.

As i now have narrowed the choice down to that one for $787

or $495 for the 6 PUC brass as PSI_GTSII has.

Sounds like clints clutch is much nicer to use than a brassi. As i test drove a RX7 turbo today with a brass PUC, it was fine dont get me wrong but once on an incline and trying to go slow it just chirped the wheels and then shuddered due to the low revs!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • albyz34gt
      R34 N/a And R34 Turbo (gtt) Transmission.. Uh, Problem.

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...