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Choosing a 200rwKw Clutch


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I'm running a 30% increased organic clutch from Extreme or soemthing..

This is it here..... http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/ck07.asp

With decent grip launching at 4500rpm slipping the clutch to regulate wheelspin causes the clutch to slip, when I click second the slip will cause it to rev to redline.

I guess the organic is simply fading and doing similiar to what brake pads do.

This started happening around 1 month after owning the clutch and fitting 225 50' Simex tyres with lowish tyre pressure. The Simex tyres have a really soft sidewall that makes them grip unbelievably in the dry.

It still is fine if I don't slip it and will spin second gear up no problems if I slap the gear with any tyre's other than the Simex's.

Third gear is also possible to chirp so it is decent just doesn't like to be slipped.

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Joel you are a legend this is the clutch i was thinking of getting! I think you are right slipping isn't good for fibre's i've a R33 and i slip it at 2700rpm to launch and held it a bit too long at a set of lights 'the end'.

What sort of rwkw's does you car have?

Did you catch my reply in the "Still no one running LT-12's yet thread".

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fly%20light.jpg

This is the UAS flywheel i have.

and

GTR_R32_Clutch_kit_4130.jpg

This is the UAS clutch. Your welcome to have a drive to see what you think, its pretty grabby, but after 2 years and plenty of track work it hasnt let me down.

In the R32 GTSt you can use the GTR clutch, are R33s the same. If so have you considered an original Nissan clutch.

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Roy That is some unreal feedback. These are some pics taken from the Unique Motorsports Site another option i was thinking of doing! Your's is the GTR clutch which is $695 and the other is the GTS-T which is $495 but both are 40% more clamping and 6 puc ceremetalic!

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I have a extreme extra heavy duty cusioned ceramic clutch and i could not recommend a better clutch, its 100% drivable on the street no problems at all. And it has held 235rwkw with decent tyres on the drag strip for many passes. Still looks good with over 2mm wear after about 2 years of use, if you plan on giving your car a hard time and can afford it go for it.

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200rwKW + here :D

5 Puck brass button clutch doin fine :)

This is the 3rd High HP car I have used a brass button in and they have never let me down, cost is reasonable at approx $500.

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Yeh, i got the GTR clutch, they had one in stock and it fitted so thats what i got. As for differences between the two ($200) im sorry i cant tell you.

Feel free to PM me if you want to have a drive and see how a 2 year old, well used UAS clutch feels.

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Don't have any problems with it. Afew people have said it is way heavier than the standard clutch but it feels normal to me.

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For me the driveability of the 5 puck Brass button is fine.....not as smooth as your standard one obviously...but no where near as bad as some of the horror stories you will no doubt hear.

It has 3200lb of clamping pressure, and clutch weight has increased, but I found it to light in standard form anyway.

Basically with the brass buttons the more buttons you have the less savage it will drive, with cushioned Button clutches being probably the best compromise and costing around $150 more than the $480 I paid.

The only time it really becomes apparent you are driving a Button clutch is really on takeoffs and on down changes, but you soon get the hang of it, i find double clutching on the downchange allows smooth changes when you just want to drive sedately :)

I have never had one wear or break :)

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Clint32 is your clutch the one RPM in adelade sell that has 100% more clamp, a full face plate with a purple pressure plate.

As i now have narrowed the choice down to that one for $787

or $495 for the 6 PUC brass as PSI_GTSII has.

Sounds like clints clutch is much nicer to use than a brassi. As i test drove a RX7 turbo today with a brass PUC, it was fine dont get me wrong but once on an incline and trying to go slow it just chirped the wheels and then shuddered due to the low revs!

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