Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I think this might be my first post but any way i have problems :D

The car taking ages to turn over when cold and not as long when hot. When its cold it takes many pumps of the pedal and 2 or 3 turns of the key as to not kill the starter.

When the car is hot its the similar but doesnt need as much pushing of the pedal to fire.

I changed the spark plugs thinking that it might be them....but no

Changed the fuel filter....but no.

Tried taking air-filter off to start car....but no.

The car doesnt feel down on power so not the fuel pump? it's only a starting issue.

Don't know what else i can try? so im looking for suggestions.

The car does have a Mines ECU (which i was stoked to find) but it hadnt effected the starting before. Also has a 3 inch off the dump pipe, CAT and a choking blitz muffler on the back. Other than that, it's stock.

It's been a couple of weeks like this now.

Im after any ideas any of you might have.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198298-2000-stagea-s-tune-starting-issue/
Share on other sites

cold days/nights my car is the same, doesnt fire, plugs are fine etc, everything has been serviced, hot days its fine. New pump will go in soon and will be checking fault codes when the informeter arrives... let me know how you go. I didn't gap my plugs down, could that be it?

Now winter is over i have no probs :D

Edited by Ryan1600

when i first got my car i had heaps of problems getting her to start to the point it would take you 5 or 6 pushes on the pedal while you were trying to start it to actually get it going.... my problem was the fact the compliancer had run her out of petrol...2 or 3 weeks later when i had good fuel in her she was fine...now 12months down the track still no problems at all *crosses fingers*

when i first got my car i had heaps of problems getting her to start to the point it would take you 5 or 6 pushes on the pedal while you were trying to start it to actually get it going.... my problem was the fact the compliancer had run her out of petrol...2 or 3 weeks later when i had good fuel in her she was fine...now 12months down the track still no problems at all *crosses fingers*

I keep mine over half a tank with 98 or 100RON

You shouldn't be pumping the pedal on ANY fuel-injected car when you're starting it - it's all controlled electronically, so there's no need for you to try and add more fuel to get it started. This might be part of the problem.

Also, have you checked the small in-line fuel filter near the tank? That often gets clogged first as it's the nearest filter to the tank, so have a look to see if there's anything blocking it.

Oh, and like Kirstie, I never let my fuel level drop below a quarter tank - when the level gets that low there's more of a chance that it the pump will pick up all of the crap that sits on the bottom of the tank, and then your filters will get clogged more quickly.

You shouldn't be pumping the pedal on ANY fuel-injected car when you're starting it - it's all controlled electronically, so there's no need for you to try and add more fuel to get it started. This might be part of the problem.

Also, have you checked the small in-line fuel filter near the tank? That often gets clogged first as it's the nearest filter to the tank, so have a look to see if there's anything blocking it.

Oh, and like Kirstie, I never let my fuel level drop below a quarter tank - when the level gets that low there's more of a chance that it the pump will pick up all of the crap that sits on the bottom of the tank, and then your filters will get clogged more quickly.

on a cold day, pumping is the only way to start it, could be TPS? Also primed the pump a few times before starting, doesn't make a difference

pumping the pedal - yeah.. not a good idea on an EFI car. the only time you should be screwing with the accelerator on startup is if you think the car is " flooded" with fuel .

opening the throttle body butterfly valve will allow more air inside and hopefully get rid of some of the excess fuel vapours and also allow a bit more air in there so that the mixture will eventually fire.

have you tried changing the heat range of your plugs? ie go hotter or colder?

what do the plug tips look like when you take them out .. can you show us a pic?

can you hear the fuel pump prime?

is the edge of the butterfly valve in the throttle body clean? or is it gunked up?

from what I understand ( least on sr20's / my RB knowledge is still on a learning curve) there is a small pin hole that lets a bit of air past hte butterfly valve on idle - and maybe check your idle air control valve? they sometimes get gunked up and need a clean

where exactly is that filter?

Some EFI cars have them, not all - haven't checked the Stagea, so I don't know if there is one there or not. It's usually in the line just after where the fuel lines come out of the tank. My old man's Camry (from way back when) had one that got clogged on the way down to Melbourne one year which had him scratching his head for quite a while until it was pointed out by someone else.

I've seen it on a few cars, but I couldn't confirm if the Stagea has one or not as I've never checked for it.

or if you dont want to get the fuel injectors cleaner you can pump United fuel Boost 98 which is able to clean the lines cos of the ethanol added into it. Im using boost 98 most of the time. If i have the coupond fuel vouchers i will use it.

pumping the pedal - yeah.. not a good idea on an EFI car. the only time you should be screwing with the accelerator on startup is if you think the car is " flooded" with fuel .

opening the throttle body butterfly valve will allow more air inside and hopefully get rid of some of the excess fuel vapours and also allow a bit more air in there so that the mixture will eventually fire.

have you tried changing the heat range of your plugs? ie go hotter or colder?

what do the plug tips look like when you take them out .. can you show us a pic?

can you hear the fuel pump prime?

can hear it prime, then stop, turn acc off, then back on to reprime... When i pull everything apart to clean it, any directions as to what i am cleaning, what to use to clean it, and can i stuff any adjustments whilst doing it?

-Ryan :D

Fuel pump switches off once there is pressure in the system and the engine is not running so no need to keep pumping to maintain pressure. Switching it on and off multiple times won't make any difference, the fuel system is either pressurised, or not... Happening when it's cold suggests it might be a sensor playing up... Check error codes would be a good start.

well I dont know for sure..( as I have only cleaned the IAC valve on the pulsar ) but I would assume the same thing applies to the RB motors.

what do the sparkplugs look like? is the colour ok ?

can hear it prime, then stop, turn acc off, then back on to reprime... When i pull everything apart to clean it, any directions as to what i am cleaning, what to use to clean it, and can i stuff any adjustments whilst doing it?

-Ryan :D

Update....

I know you're not supposed to pump the pedal, but if i didnt it would probly just crank all day and not fire. Sometimes it will start first go but rarely.

It feels like its starting to lose some down low power, but is almost as fast at hight revs 4500+

Can't hear fuel pump prime, ive never been able to hear a stock fuel pump prime in any car.

Is it possible the fuel pump could be dying? A mates sprinter would start but stall past 3000rpm = stuffed fuel pump. Another mates silvia would lose power at 5000rpm and stall pretty much = stuffed fuel pump again.

But mine not getting fuel at start up = stuffed fuel pump?!?

A dirty/rooted O2 sensor do it?

The plugs that i took out of the car, the tips were white possibly too hot?. not fouled and black.

I might check out the throttle body tomorrow, when i did the plugs there was some black shite (oil/dirt) on the cooler piping inner walls. I just assumed it was a crud build up.

Thanks for your suggestions. :P

Edited by Whooby
  • 3 weeks later...

Update:

Tried a larger fuel pump, good for up to 500HP - No change, bit too much fuel for a stock engine.

Could it be a crank angle sensor perhaps? once the engine fires there is a Tick Tick Tick then stops. Not sure what it is yet.

Any help please :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...