Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Have sold the GTST and now im looking at a gtr...

Boostworxs have been great to me and helped out heaps. but they only have a 2wd dyno....

So now who do you guys use that are reptuable and trusted for tuning etc of the 4wd cars?

Cheers

ps off topic... are n1 turbos standered gtr 33 turbos?

Edited by Adz2332
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198423-tuners/
Share on other sites

how do they do it seeing as they only have a 2wd dyno??

drop the front driveshaft, pop the fuse, do the tune then get it ready for pickup.

I used to go to GWW but I feel boostwerx look after me with service and price

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198423-tuners/#findComment-3543092
Share on other sites

drop the front driveshaft, pop the fuse, do the tune then get it ready for pickup.

I used to go to GWW but I feel boostwerx look after me with service and price

ahh excellent and boostworxs will drop the shaft etc no probs? does it cost any more?

There happy to do it?

Id be reali happy to keep using them!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198423-tuners/#findComment-3543096
Share on other sites

ahh excellent and boostworxs will drop the shaft etc no probs? does it cost any more?

There happy to do it?

Id be reali happy to keep using them!!!!

You dont need to do any mechanical mods to GTR's to dyno on 2wd, just pull out the ATTESSA fuse and the car goes to 2wd. Besides the dynotune is working on the engine, only needs one set of feedback from the rears to work (the only benefit in getting a 4wd dyno is that you can compare the power loss from the front driveshaft/diff assembly.. same way u can get it dynoed at the flywheel or the rear wheels, its just a question of application.)

If you're north of the city, I'd recommend Road & Track in collins st, enfield, their dyno guy Mikey has done excellent work on my gtr, from pulling 15 more kw out of thin air to getting rid of power sags. If you're down south tho, boostworx is the way to go (ive never been there but given the feedback on this board, he knows his stuff and doesnt charge an arm and a leg for it)

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198423-tuners/#findComment-3543165
Share on other sites

It's only on R32 GTRs that you can pull out the fuse to make them RWD. With R33 & R34 GTRs you to have drop the front driveshaft.

N1 turbos were made for all GTRs but are only standard on N1 or Nur GTRs. The R34 N1s are the only N1 turbos that have steel wheels instead of the ceramic exhaust wheel. There are also 3 different types of R34 GTR N1 turbos. You will find alot more info on them in the Forced Induction section.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198423-tuners/#findComment-3543240
Share on other sites

It's only on R32 GTRs that you can pull out the fuse to make them RWD. With R33 & R34 GTRs you to have drop the front driveshaft.

N1 turbos were made for all GTRs but are only standard on N1 or Nur GTRs. The R34 N1s are the only N1 turbos that have steel wheels instead of the ceramic exhaust wheel. There are also 3 different types of R34 GTR N1 turbos. You will find alot more info on them in the Forced Induction section.

so how will i be able to tell what ones they have on the car?? just by looking at them?

And they are a slight upgrade from standered?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198423-tuners/#findComment-3543253
Share on other sites

If you're north of the city, I'd recommend Road & Track in collins st, enfield, their dyno guy Mikey has done excellent work on my gtr, from pulling 15 more kw out of thin air to getting rid of power sags.

-D

I've had free horsepower before as well at other places.........the problem is, the way they usually get is by tuning your ECU to the point where they thin out the AFR's too much to the point of Too Lean and sometimes Detonation.......I always prefer slightly conservative tunes and my engine thanks me for it.

It's only on R32 GTRs that you can pull out the fuse to make them RWD. With R33 & R34 GTRs you to have drop the front driveshaft.

N1 turbos were made for all GTRs but are only standard on N1 or Nur GTRs. The R34 N1s are the only N1 turbos that have steel wheels instead of the ceramic exhaust wheel. There are also 3 different types of R34 GTR N1 turbos. You will find alot more info on them in the Forced Induction section.

CORRECT.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198423-tuners/#findComment-3543446
Share on other sites

so how will i be able to tell what ones they have on the car?? just by looking at them?

And they are a slight upgrade from standered?

you will have to get the serial numbers from your turbo's. Iam running R34 N1 turbo's "Garret 2860r-7" on my GTR and pulling 314rwkw on 20psi. Tuned by Boostworx.

Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198423-tuners/#findComment-3543550
Share on other sites

Iam running R34 N1 turbo's "Garret 2860r-7" on my GTR and pulling 314rwkw on 20psi. Tuned by Boostworx.

Ryan

That's interesting.........I've got some -5's ready to go on with a PFC, full fuel, cams and intercooler upgrade so I'm hoping to pull at least those figures myself. Oh.....and a Kakimoto full dual N1 exh.

Did you have to do many other mods to get those figures?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198423-tuners/#findComment-3543862
Share on other sites

so how will i be able to tell what ones they have on the car?? just by looking at them?

And they are a slight upgrade from standered?

you will have to get the serial numbers from your turbo's.

Serial numbers and specs can be found here: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/gtr-turbochart.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198423-tuners/#findComment-3544626
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...