Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

yesterday arvo changed from my street tyres to my semis for Oran Park today.

So get up early this morning and off I go...not.

At first sounded like I was lazy and didnt do the wheel up tight, sounded like a clunk/metal on metal noise each few meters. (all nuts were on tight and everything)

Came back home as I didnt want to drive down 60kms to OP and have anything happen on the motorway.

jacked car up, free spun the wheels, no noise.

then took the right wheel off, couldnt see anything under there that looked broken.

put wheel back on, all tight and everything, went to park in garage, 1st gear - clunkity bang!

so its when wheel is on, under load. nothing from left hand side.

Any ideas?

I am hopeless at this stuff!!

Cheers,

Chris

Is the wheel clearing the caliper properly? Maybe youve tightened the wheel up a bit skewy and its collecting the caliper on the way through?

Checked the suspension arms? Maybe you've got a busted bush causing the wheel to sit weird...

Checked wheel to shock clearance/rubbing?

Also if you've got a hicas lock bar make sure its still tight. Grab the hicas arm and wiggle it to check for play

Heya Jon!

Yeah clears caliper no worries!

havent had a close inspection at the arms

wheel to shock clearance...dont understand!

lock bar - ah cool, will check that also!

well,

changed my rears back to my street tyre rims/wheels and so far no noise...

looking at the rims

(33GTSt rims with semis - 32 GTSt rims street rubber)

the 33 rim that was rear right seems to have a few og the weights missing from the balancing, would this have caused it?

rim looks healthy...just missing a few weights compared to the others...

thoughtS?

The missing weights won't cause problems at that sort of speed, and with a stock rim i cant see the issue being related to the wheel hitting anything (though it should be pretty obvious if you look inside the wheel well and see any shiny bits)

But, from your description it sounds like it happens once with each wheel rotation so the weights are a possibility of hitting something as the wheel turns.....

Swap the front semi to the rear and see what it does. check the strut for any marks where the weights or something could have hit the lower spring seat (i've had that problem before) also check the rotors and pads just in case something has gotten stuck in there and is destroying your brakes

yeah had Dave (T04GTAAAH) look at it, we changed wheels agai,n and no noise.

although now when I engage reverse, and goto roll back, theres a "clinky" noise. happens everyime for reverse, sounds like Im running over and breaking something on the ground.

Im starting to wonder, could my diff be giving up on me? I know it has been "open wheeling" on the track (bathurst hillclimb did it a fair bit)

Time for a new diff me thinks anyway :thumbsup:

i was going to suggest that the axle/diff teeth could be missing a couple teeth, but then u said it went away with the std tyre's on. maybe the semi is binding up and producing the noise easier? whereas the street tyre has less grip... i duno its a tough one without hearing it.

well,

each time today that noise as once Ive put it in reverse to letting clutch out to roll back, seems to get louder or its just me being a paranoid barstard!! :(

:)

well if its in the driveline....

engine mount

gearbox mount

something dead in the box (but if you can get all the gears probably not)

tailshaft centre bearing

tailshaft uni

diff backlash (not broken teeth if it was it would clunk much more often)

badly worn cvs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...