Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey all, new to the world of jap cars :banana: is this drift prac for everyone or only for the experienced peeps ??? always wanted to give it a go in a controlled environment (basically somewhere where there aint much to hit hehehe) let me know the details cheers guys

lol one day hey flick :(

cost is $10 at the gate, another $80 for the drifting and if you dont have a CAMS licence another $20 for a day licence. Then petrol, tyres etc.

Good on ya as others said for wanting to give it a crack out on the track, too many ppl try and do it on the street and end up damaging or writing off their cars completely, very few accidents happen on track.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Now now young lady. Don't let that stop you.

Cost will be around the $3 - 500 mark.

After fee's for drifitng ( entry, track fees, cams licence), fuel, tyres, helmet, long sleves.

Good luck with getting ya 4 whore sidewayz and enjoy yaself.

OH and by the way do not be ashamed to ask for the person behind you to be let off later.

I always do it and it gives u that bit more confidence of not having to worry about someone being held up because you spin or are slow.

Good luck mate.

Oh and i will be out there but not sliding.

My car will be out of action as new parts will be on in a week and that week is drift prac week.

Toodle PIP

depends, ull spend a touch over $100 to get through the gates and on the track, then depending on what u use, $50 - $100 for tyres and fitting (i can help u out if ur running 17's), have a full tank when u get out there, ull use most of it, borrow a helmet, make sure u have long sleeves. shouldnt spend more than $300. i rarely spend over $200 for a day.

cheers for that guys, might hafta get some funds together.... only thing i have to ask is what kinda long sleeves they talkin about ???? i have a helmet coz of my motorbike thats sorted... so all i need is some crappy wheels and tyres, i think my tyres will be too big lmao dang 265s on the back hehehe so if anyone has a cheap set of r33 rims and tyres i can buy id be keen to know how much id be up for :)

cmon flick auto or not u still have N and D hehe :banana: and of course your handbrake :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...