Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay guys i got a stock standard 1989 series 3 aussie skyline executive with an rb30e in it....i am looking at getting some more power out of it and i would just like to know some cheap mods that can be done with effective gains....if you could include prices in ur post that wud be greatly appreciated also..

thanks for ur help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199402-modifying-my-series-3-r31-skyline/
Share on other sites

Good panel filter, chop a hole into the front of your airbox, exhaust, extractors, advance timing... visit the forums at r31skylineclub.com for more, great bunch of people and very helpful website for R31 information.

yeah i would do a turbo conversion cept its my first car and new laws...so cant have turbo cars no more! :) wat is the price range on 25 heads?.... also is a panel filter just a normal filter the same as what they come with stock?

looking to get an exhaust system for my N/A rb30 am just trying to plan it at the momment...i want to go from 2.25 extractors to 2.5 exhaust right through...

but i need to know what sort of muffler/s and cat system i would need with this setup...

could u please include an over all price range for everything

thanks. :)

EDIT: also with the extractors does 2.25 inch extractors mean at the flange end or wat?

Edited by r31_Bruz

why would you go from 2.25 to 2.50? the exhaust is only going to be as best as its smallest section.

a set of 2.25" extractors would mean the outlet size correct.

i would budget for at least $1000 for a full exhaust.

no one is going to spoon feed you with what and where, not to mention the price. any muffler or cat you want or what you have available. call your exhaust shop and get some quotes.

i will merge both your threads together. please keep it in the one thread.

If it's manual the 2.5" should be good, mufflers just depends on how quiet/loud you want it to be. Mufflers will be the biggest factor in cost of the exhaust, though you should be able to find extractors and a cat-back cheap 2nd hand on the r31 club.

Panel filter is as you guessed, a filter for the stock airbox. If you get a good flowing one and cut a hole in the front of the airbox to let more cold air flow into it, it'll be better than simply chucking on a pod as sooo many people do. If you just put on a pod without a good airbox setup, then you will just be sucking in hot air, and in most states it's a defect anyway.

25 head is simply not worth it unless you can do all the work yourself and manage to get the bits cheap. RB30DE is cool, but staying n/a the bang for your buck just isn't worth it IMO.

Advance timing costs you as much as a timing light, again worth reading up on it in the tech section of R31SC. Or darkhalf on the club sells remaped ECU's for around $110 plus send back your stock ecu to him, which as everyone on the club will agree are well worth the money.

After that things get expensive and not really worth it. Things like twin cam conversion, or just getting a nicely upgraded cam, aftermarket ECU etc...

its auto atm..but once i do a few upgrades and all that i will be buying a conversion kit and installing it myself..and with the mufflers im not overly fussed on a super loud car just want something that sounds decent...

with the panel filter some thing lyk a k&n high flow panel filter would be a gud choice? or any1 else got some reccomendations..and instead of sticking a hole in it i was thinking of maybe getting a much bigger air intake snorkle? would this be a good idea..or? also is it possible to fit any sort of air intake snorkle without changing anything else cept maybe rearranging where the snorkle goes..

sugestions please :D

thanks.

I don't know where you would find a larger snorkel to fit? you could hunt around some wreckers at other model cars, but I doubt you will find a model with a larger one.

I was looking at this for a 31 and ended up just using a home made enclosed pod filter with large 4" flexible ducting into the enclosure from underneath the front.

save up and buy a better performing vehicle alot lot hassle, or sell this 31 and buy another that has work already done on it...

unless you spend some decent money on it the gains will be minimal... and doing the manual conversion aint that cheap either, finding a gearbox under 600 will be hard then you need the other bits, ie. drive shaft, clutch pedal box, cross member all are wanted bits plus manual ecu possibly...

i wud just stick a snorkle on from anysorta car was thinkin bout an el falcon snorkle im not bothered bout making sum new holes to screw it down or making the hole in the air box bigger...

thanks for the info on the manual conversion too

Manual conversion would be a good start, g/box is more like $500, the rest of the bits are easy enough to get through the 31 club. As for snorkel, an R33 one is a lot bigger and would be an upgrade, but always good to have the extra flow from an additional hole for air to enter the air box through.

And don't listen to anyone who bags out the good old 31 or tells you not to waste money on them. I've had a few of them and they really are awesome cars, cheap fun, and tough as, very hard to kill and last forever. If the car makes you happy, that's what matters.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...