Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got an AVO front mount on mine and it works well. Nice package bolts straight on no surprises. I believe im giving it a fair bit of work and it handles it nicely, during dyno runs the turbo side is almost too hot to touch whilst the plenum side is only marginally warm.

Any other reputable brand is probably just as good but the AVO is on par.

I got a custom AVO cooler built and its awesome... very thick bar and plate core, with end tanks that run piping out each end so i can run custom piping rather than through the stock position for when the plenum goes on and front mounted throttle body. but i must admit after looking for a while and researching brand name cores, a lot of the popular jap stuff is crap!! Trust me... research a bit of physics and you'll agree too. A big supriser, the popular HKS cooler is shyte... unless you plan yo spend up big on say a Trust SPL drag core then don't buy a jap cooler cos there is some really good stuff here with better results.

but i must admit after looking for a while and researching brand name cores, a lot of the popular jap stuff is crap!! Trust me... research a bit of physics and you'll agree too. A big supriser, the popular HKS cooler is shyte...

Thats a pretty big call, what physics tells us the stuff is crap?

I think i wored my statement wrong there, HKS coolers are good don't get me wrong and they are extremely popular but for the hype and brag about them, technically they are not there... put it this way a Hybrid cooler built in aus about 800 for it cooler more efficiently than a HKS type S...?? add piping and your look at around the 1350 mark, a HKS kit cheap is about 17-1800... why would ya bother just for a name? It just pays to do a bit of research on stuff to see what you are acutally buying.

Cool. i agree that they are not always good value for money, with many local kits being of equal quality, perhaps better. But my opinion (based on having some technical knowledge through study and work) is that the hype concerning most Jap intercoolers is warranted, but the price may not be.

If buying local though i hazard this warning, be sure to buy from a reputable place, such as AVO, ARE amongst others.

Some come with nicely formed end tanks but use cheap and nasty cores so to offer competitive prices. Some come with end tanks that are cast and based on the GTR end tank, but use poor flowing cores, problem is they look the goods, even the width of the tubes doesnt clue you in that the core is restrictive.

I was surprised to learn that bar and plate cores are on average cheaper to manufacture then tube and fin. Note: cheaper to manufacture, not are poorer quality or not as good.

There a positives and negatives to both types of coolers... depends on teh manufacturer of the core as to whether the bar na dplate core is likely to leak... basically garrett themselves say their cores aren't 100% sealed when they sell them to you!! But if you look at their core you'd see why its pretty damn average. Basically if you have the room to fit a large tube and fin cooler, go for it as it will work the best. However size for size, a bar and plate cooler will nearly all fo the time have a better result overall. A bar and plate cooler will get a lower intake temperature than a tube and fin HOWEVER will have a slightly higher pressure drop than a tube and find. this is why i said if you have the room to fit a large tube and fin then you can cool to the same amount but with less pressure drop...yes? So it all depends, on what you are after, and a lot of factors, i.e. size, shape, style or brand of core can be either tube and fin, bar and plate, square tube and fin etc. So to cut it short, bar and plate cools better, tube and fin less pressure drop...

  • 1 month later...
Originally posted by YBSLO4

My AVO cooler cost 880 for the bare core, bout 100 per end tank and the labor cost i aint sure of. But not cheap but worth the quality. ARE are also very very good, but are similar in pricing, but once again they aint cheap for a reason.

hmmmm

i can get an avo core 600x300 plus trust end tanks built for $500

glad i have good contacts :D

sHorty: New? unlikely. Genuine? possibly. Hot? Likely.

No offense, but genuine Trust/Apexi/AVO stuff starts at 1500 for the whole kit, maybe a bit less at trade.

Additionally, i'm fairly sure Trust don't make or sell separate end tanks, nor would AVO just sell the core. Why? To protect their name from badly assembled hack-togethers. Is the core stamped with AVO? Are the end tanks stamped with TRUST? Or did the person selling it just tell you that? Again i don't mean to offend; as long as the cooler does its job you got a great deal regardless of the make/manufacture.

I am waiting for an ARE cooler from QLD to come in about 2 weeks. I went with them (even though they are a bit dearer than other locals, but cheaper than a jap cooler) because they have a product that appears to be extensively researched and tested. As rb20-calais mentioned, they are renowned for quality of manufacture and performance. Bottom line is i know where the cooler is from and want to support the local industry.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...