Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to hijack the thread but this is still on-topic...

Does anyone know why the stock intake "tube" is shaped like it is? If changing it to a metal pipe will improve airflow, why is it not metal from the factory?

Not trying to flame, just innocently asking the question. Is it just so its more flexible, being all rippled? Cos I would've thought that the ripples would cause more turbulence with airflow.

A metal pipe would also get hot and possibly affect intake temps...maybe?

Can anyone offer a good explanation of which is better between the stock thingy and a metal intake pipe and why?

Just curious to know. I'm just reluctant to change mine cos it may be shaped like it is for a reason.

As far as i know 33's there are metal reinforcements in the ripples, and i haven't really looked but i'm guessing its smooth inside
I believe that it's for flexibility. Inside there should be metal shaped like a spring to hold the tube from calapsing(sp?) on boost.

There wasn't any reinforcing in mine. And I haven't seen one yet that has it.

If you you want reinforcing, then do this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...l&hl=rev210

Edited by KeyMaker
There wasn't any reinforcing in mine. And I haven't seen one yet that has it.

If you you want reinforcing, then do this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...l&hl=rev210

I honestly don't know if the skyline(rb's) have them, but I'm pretty sure the SR's do. I remember checking out a car with a hose that didn't have the reinforcement and it couldn't rev past ~5krpm. I first wasn't sure what was going on, but when we changed over to a hose WITH the reinforcement, the car easily revved.

Sorry to hijack the thread but this is still on-topic...

Does anyone know why the stock intake "tube" is shaped like it is? If changing it to a metal pipe will improve airflow, why is it not metal from the factory?

Not trying to flame, just innocently asking the question. Is it just so its more flexible, being all rippled? Cos I would've thought that the ripples would cause more turbulence with airflow.

A metal pipe would also get hot and possibly affect intake temps...maybe?

Can anyone offer a good explanation of which is better between the stock thingy and a metal intake pipe and why?

Just curious to know. I'm just reluctant to change mine cos it may be shaped like it is for a reason.

yeah the steel intake pipe will promote a lot more heat soak, but during load and high suction heat wouldnt get a chance to soak into passing air

only at idle would temps go up i'd imagine

A good way around it is to just by some 3" alloy or steel pipe and 2 3" hose clamps and just cut a small section out of your stock intake (about 3 ribs or so) and put the metal pipe in between the now 2 sections (about 12 cms of metal pipe) this will prevent it from sucking closed. :P

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...