Jump to content
SAU Community

My engine is really sick (video)


Recommended Posts

Guest veilsideS14

Here is some background information. A couple days ago, I was driving my car through some rural roads (off boost driving) when I noticed that it was starting to get really hot. Eventually, it got really hot and overheated. I pulled over to the side of the road and called a tow-truck to have my car hauled the rest of the way home.

I hadn't had this issue before so I thought it was either the water pump or the thermostat. I replaced the thermostat because it was the lesser of the two items. I filled it back up with coolant and started it up.

At idle, the car sounds great. It doesn't puff any wacky smoke or anything. But when you rev it up a little bit, it makes some weird clacking/knocking noise. I've included a video with audio so all can see it first hand.

http://24.163.137.145/engine.wmv

Any suggestions? My engine is really sick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19973-my-engine-is-really-sick-video/
Share on other sites

Guest veilsideS14

Nope, no smoke. I thought it could have been a head gasket issue as well but there is no white smoke coming from the exhaust. My next step is to take the plugs out to make sure there is nothing funky happening that I'm not seeing.

I just think it's really crazy that all of a sudden, it is making this aweful noise. I'm soooo sad for my engine :)

Guest veilsideS14
Originally posted by CerealKiller

could you possibly get a vid of it just idling? it might help a bit more.

Actually, if you can believe it or not, at idle, it sounds perfectly fine. I fired the engine up and let it idle for a while as I was trying to circulate coolant through my new thermostat. It wasn't untill I revved the engine a bit that I noticed it was making this funny noise.

Guest veilsideS14
Originally posted by SKYLINEGTR

no smoke thats a good sign make sure all belts have no play its hard do pinpoint it thow from the video guess it will have to come down to equation thing,is it boosting ?

I will check the belts. Most of them are brand new but I'll take a peek at them anyway, just to make sure.

I haven't driven it since the overheating incident so it's not been boosting yet.

Guest veilsideS14
Originally posted by CerealKiller

what about a clip of it say just below boost (constant not reving) - as in a 5 sec clip of it at 2,500rpm

I can do that. I will take a video and post it later today. Thanks for all the help and concern guys.

You really think it could be a piston issue though? Like it's slapping the valves or something even worse?

Whatever it is, I wouldn't be turning it on and revving it anymore.

Water pump sounds possible, if theres plenty of (non water) oil in the thing then that would supposedly rule out internals, perhaps its something on the belt.. get it checked out... damn thats a horrible sound :D

Dosen't sound like piston slap to me, that will occur on idle

Guest Dragon
Originally posted by Demon Dave

i'm no expert but, if the car is idling OK and not smoking, it sounds like the pistons/cams etc are fine. It could be a serious problem with the water pump? That might also expain the overheating....

I would have to agree with Dave here, if it started to overheat, then get worse, now sounds like this, but no smoke, no blowby, then it sounds like the waterpump has spat the dummy and is scraping against the block.

I'd start the engine, with the rad cap off, and check to see if there is ANY water flow.

Is there oil pressure? A stuffed oil pump will cause an engine to overheat, resulting in chewed out bearings.

The sound I hear on the video sounds like big ends/little ends with NO oil!

I have cooked an engine with a perfectly working cooling system through lack of oil pressure. The result, stuffed to bearings big time. Overheated the same, like yours, blew coolent out, then sounded like yours the next day.

It can happen.

Check oil pressure.

Check oil pump.

Check water pump.

Pull rocker cover off and check to see if the metal has gone a temp colour. Also start while rocker cover off and see if any oil is making it's way into the head.

To me, it doesn't sound good. :D

Sorry. Good luck.

Or ...

if the Sr20 has it an indler bearing for the cam belt... it could be that.

The cam belt had been chaged but the bearing hadn't.

I had that happen to my RB20.

It was making noise... and then one day let go.

And then ... bye bye to all 24 valves as the pistons smashed them all up. That cost a farking fortune!

Guest veilsideS14

Someone suggested to me that it could be clutch/flywheel chatter as well. I've got an OS Giken twin plate clutch in my car right now. I've never heard this before so I'm not sure why it would show up just now but that was another opinion being thrown around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...