Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Pedal Bracket Pic

Merilious
 Share

Recommended Posts

Merilious Explorer

Merilious

Posted
Posted

I have a 1991 GTS-t, and the small spot welds my clutch pedal bracket snapped. So I bought a Nismo one, but after I took the old one out, removed the pedal from it and moved it over to the new one I have a problem. I can't figure out how to mount the assist spring back to the pedal. Is there some kind of trick to doing this? I have spent like 2 hours with this unit in front of me and I can't figure out how to get the damn spring back on the new, or even the old bracket so it works right. Has anyone done this before, or does anyone have a pic of a R32 clutch pedal bracket that they can post up so I can see how is it mounted?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199787-clutch-pedal-bracket-pic/
Share on other sites
Merilious Explorer

Merilious

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Why didn't you just weld the old one back on?

It's all I did.

I did, three times..lol The welds just kept breaking, it also doesn't help that the bracket is made of tin can thickness metal and that I have a clutch so stiff it seems like I have gone to the gym everytime I drive my car.

After the 3rd time welding it I told myself if it breaks again im just gonna bite the bullet and get the NISMO one.

  • 2 months later...
tecate Rookie

tecate

Posted
Posted

Hey dude its easier then it sounds, same thing happened to me.. u know how i did it.. i got 2 zip ties.. squeezed the spring until it was compacted with multigrips and then put the zip ties on one on each side, put the 2 ends in place and then cut the zip ties.. worked for me.

If you like i can take a pic of my spring so u kno how it looks when ur putting it back in?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...