Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

Im currently looking at buying an R34 GTR V Spec with about 40,000kmon the clock (in canberra if anyone knows it) however the speedo has been changed to a 320km/h one, anyway to find out for certain how many km;s are on the car??

Also as ill be new to the GTR range can anyone give me any specific to look for besides the obvious.

Maybe even someoen who has a GTR of their own could take the time out to come inspect a couple with me in the next couple of weeks??

Thanks in advance, Semo

Edited by Style32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199813-r34-gtr-pointers/
Share on other sites

first of all the word 'investing' probably isn't the right word to use when buying a car :devil:

As for the km's, ignore them, they don't mean anything, 99% of imports are wound back and made up log books etc.

Look at the condition of the car. Look for common wear marks. If it really has 40,000ks then the car will look brand new, there probably wouldn't be a mark on the interior and it should still have that new car smell :worship:

Look for wear on the steering wheel, the gearstick boot, the gear knob, the seats, the indicator stalk, the pedals, etc...

Get it checked out by someone familiar with GTR's.

Hey all

had a look at the car today looked EXTEREMELY neat, Interior was in perfect condition, exterior was in near perfect condition. the only fault was the inside of the left hand headlight had some discoloration. Any ideas on how something like that would be repaired id be hard pressed to replace a Xenon light.

ran really smooth and handled amazingly.

Still intend on getting checked from top to bottom, any recommendations for a GTR mech??

Yeah i always use the KM;s as a last point of call but its always good to have one with less.

And nope its white, dont intend on spending 95,000 for a V Spec these days, they are far lower than that, Thanks for the input so far.

edit: Ill say investment because it makes me feel a little better >_<

Edited by Style32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
×
×
  • Create New...