Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I bought an Earls 13 row (wide type) oil cooler core for my R32 gtst with built, single turboed RB26 in it. After making some modifications to the intercooler piping, i can now fit a 16 or 19 row core in the drivers side inner guard.

My question is; although ill probably do minimal track/drag strip work, should i fit the biggest possible cooler i can in there? I suspect the answer is yes, but just thought id ask first.

Oh, im not using a thermostat either. The dimensions for the 13 row are (W)225x(T)50x(H)100mm. The 16 row is 25mm higher, and the 19 row is 25mm higher again.

Thanks for any help,

Shaun.

is it a street car as well? If so, with a larger core, you'd be wise to fit a thermostat inline.

It would pay to fit a larger core, you dont have to go too crazy, bu something bigger then you have now, aided with ducting would be great

I've talked to a few people about this as well, and surprisingly, bigger is not always better and where you place the cooler is important too.

I believe any size would decrease oil temps, but also make sure you mount it "BEHIND" the radiator.

You gotta keep in mind, you want your oil above 100 degrees, and if you are driving it day-to-day on the road, with a large oil cooler, mounted right at the front, the oil will be cooled with air in the 20-30 degree range, possibly making the oil too cold to do it's work.

Just to give you an idea, I'm driving a R33 turbo, no cooler at all, and it would see the mountains (Mt nebo) and QLD raceway at least once a month. with no overheating probs what so ever. But keep in mind I will be running some upgrades very soon, so will seriously consider an oil cooler upgrade soonish.

sorry for the long post.

run the bigger cooler. and don't run it anywhere near the radiator. far better to have it housed in either side duct. thermostat is a good idea, but if you don't want to add one just monitor temps and if you find it wont get up to temp then just use a piece of perspex of aluminium sheet and cover part of the core during colder weather. on the street you don't really want temps over 100C for a skyline. 80-90 is fine running temp.

run the bigger cooler. and don't run it anywhere near the radiator. far better to have it housed in either side duct. thermostat is a good idea, but if you don't want to add one just monitor temps and if you find it wont get up to temp then just use a piece of perspex of aluminium sheet and cover part of the core during colder weather. on the street you don't really want temps over 100C for a skyline. 80-90 is fine running temp.

I think youre a wise man Beer Barron. Thats exactly what i was thinking of doing in cooler weather. The GTR engine uses the heat in the water to heat up the oil on cold start doesnt it? For this reason, it was recommended i dont run a thermostat.

Anyway, ill get the bigger one.

Shaun.

yeah, there is a heat exchanger in the oil filter mount assembly that puts heat from the coolant into the oil to help bring it up to 80C. go big, on hot days and track days you will need it. when you don't, just use the little alloy shield to block airflow to all or part of the core. :)

I have never had too cold oil anywhere in Australia, so I have never ever considered a thermostat.

Cheers

Gary

you dont live in the adelaide hills... some nights it gets wayyy chilly, great turbo weather but my oil temps struggled to get over 60 degrees, i covered the core with cardboard and they went up to 90... til i decided to fit a thermostat. couldnt be stuffed with cardboard

you dont live in the adelaide hills... some nights it gets wayyy chilly, great turbo weather but my oil temps struggled to get over 60 degrees, i covered the core with cardboard and they went up to 90... til i decided to fit a thermostat. couldnt be stuffed with cardboard

Mt Kosciusku, minus 5 degrees often, every winter, every year for 10 years, all sorts of cars, all with oil coolers. Never needed a thermostat in any of them. How about a rally car on Mt. Canobolas in winter, now that's cold.

Regardless, 60 degrees is not a problem. Plus I assume that you are measuring the temperature post oil cooler, so the "operating" oil temp is more like 80 degrees anyway.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...