Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its Japan.. many companies in Japan are up the spout at the moment and have been for a while. Just look at the value yen at the moment, currently sitting on about 80 = $1AUD..whereas not too long ago our $ would have only been valued at something around 60. Its good for us in a way, shows our country is doing well compared to some.. hopefully it stays that way.

I think a lot of the production of new and exciting new cars and performance parts will be held back I think for a long while to come. They'll be around, but not quite at the level of the 90's

I wonder if those rumours stem from the US branch of Apex?

My wife called the Osaka Head Office of Apex and they assured (in Japan at least) us that doing business with them, or any one of they're re-sellers would be sound.

To answer your question though, the regional offices (US and Korea) will close before anything happens in Japan. But thats unlikely. For now....

Your all right though, the economy here is worrying to say the least, but the best part about it all is that maybe, juuuuust maybe, the Aussie dollar will hit 80yen to the dollar, then we can all have Weds Sport SA-90 rims on our cars...

Btw, the name is registered here as "Apex" (pronounced A-pe-ku-su) with no "i". I know the "i" is meant to mean "integration", but thats US only.

  • 9 months later...

This sucks,

The more companies/devauation of japans currency = The less likely the next GTR will be out soon or come out at a descent price.

Im hoping the r35 revitalises NISSAN and starts a new technologically driven performance generation far ahead of the current status :D

Then i hope toyota design a new supra so the GTR atleast has some competition!

Tommy Kiara (spelling???) has gone bust, sold its design/jigs etc  to that little SR powered Roadster to a pommie company.  

It would seem things are tough in Japna at the moment.

thats crappie! i was saving to get one of there RS1s', all this is not so good for the new parts side of things, but with the almost 80 yen = to $1 aus its all good for us to import more and more or at least afford some of the newer items from these companies...i say every one shop away...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...