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hi guys, basicly im after some opinions on a few things im taking the car in to all star garage on the 24th of this month to put a few new things on it my shoping list is as the following.

iv got 2 turbo kits a Greaddy td06h-25g with a ebay top mount and a gready dump pipe how ever i dont think im gana put this one on as the turbo has a little bit of shaft play and i want something with a little more power.

i want to put the gt35r on not sure what gate i should put on iv bought Tial Wastegate (38mm or 60mm) havent picked the size yet which one i should order ?

- 600cc hks injectors,

- new fuel rail,intake mani, 80mil throutlebody, bought it from ebay

- bosh pump, sard regulator,

- hks frount mount ic,

- tomi spec b cams and Greddy Cam Gear, Greaddy timing belt. and a clear gready cover for rb26 which im hoping will get on my neo engin with a lil moding and look nice,

- split fire coil packs (i havnt bought this just yet but thinking of it if need be on dyno)

- tatinum spark plugs,

- greaddy oil cooling system

- Full Greddy titanium exohst system with no cat,

- HKS air filter.

- pfc and profic b or a avcr "havent picked wich one to install n wich one to sell"

- oh ya and hks ssql bov :( n catch can..

- 2win plate clutch and nismo suspention n a few more things that dont matter too much in this case..

- BeeR for the extra fun :/

still to get a top mount manifold well i got one but its ebay n i dont like the welding on it that one came with a greaddy td06h-25g stainless turbo and gready dump pipe that i think im gana sell cuz i want the garret gt35r setup more. im thinking 6boost but i heard they are too heavy and they take too long to make i need it here in 18 days.. any justified suggestions ?

do i need any other supporting mods ? eg a mettal head gasket or is the factory one ok for now ?

the engine internals are all stock but engin is very very healthy at the moment touch wood ;) how much can i push it hpatw? and how much boost is too much ?

any expeeriances of how much the internals can handle ? how much would a rebuild cost and how much more would i be able to push if i get pistons and rods ? i dont think i wana spend much more at the moment which is why im thinking maybe i can get 360 - 420 hp at the wheels from the standard motor but thats just my unexperienced heavy foot talking.

some expeerianced and expert advice would be good the guys at allstar have said 360rwhp can be acheaved without too much stress on internals but a jap friend who knows his jap cars said u can go up to 400 n more but needs good tuning. what ever that means.

Edited by drmafia
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200271-r34gtt-gt35r-stock-internals/
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thanks for that

so which gate should i run ? the smaller one ?

oh i have a z32 afm as well goin on

- i still havent got the split fire coil packs. do i need this ?

- which boost controler should i use and why ?

- do i need a n1 oil pump as well or is the standard one for gtt ok ?

oh ya n the rest of the questions are up there. im not sure wether to get forges rods and pistons or not with this setup that im putting on how much power can i get lets say if the engin was built ? and how much should i leave it as is ?

gate:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ex...zes-t43638.html

coils - unless your current ones are stuffed, no point

N1 - i wouldnt bother on a stock motor and without the oil mods (as part of a rebuild)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...ui-t110680.html

EBC - Not really needed. Thats the purpose of the wastegate - to regulate boost.

set-up correctly there wont be a problem. I ran 24psi off the gate, never had a problem.

Rebuild - 5-7k. You'll make over 350rwkw witha GT35, 25psi+, obviously you'd be silly to attempt this on a stock motor.

IMO, if you dont rebuild the motor, then a GT35 is too big. A GT3076 or similar would be much better suited to 280rwkw, with lightning response compared to the GT35 which would be nowhere near as responsive/midrange poke.

fuel reg - dont need one. Factory is perfect, i used mine for over 350rwkw/24psi.

sparkies - stick with $4 coppers.

BeeR - playing with one of these (what are IMO stupid), will not aid motor life. Causing it to slap limiter, backfire etc will not do you any favours.

manifolds - careful with the ebay shit. more trouble than its worth most of the time. A good manifold is around 1k-1.2k

the list up there is a list of parts i have already got, not im going to get apart from the spitfire coil packs which i dont think i need but ill know on dyno i guess, tried to get in touch with 6boost "kyle" but seems like they are closed and i doubt they can make me on in the next 15days which is when i need one by. and the waistgates already payed for just gata pick one of the two sizes they have in stock seems like ill go the smaller one 38mm. seems like not runing a ebc or runing the profec b is the prefaired option from what a few of you guys have responded so i might see both of them or run the profec b depending on what the work shop thinks when i take it there.

the turbo im not going to buy a 3rd one its one of the two but seems like its the gt35r as i said i dont mind doing the internals if/when i blow them that is. but should be ok with 300rwk im hoping or just a tick over.

was also considering installing a nos kit just for spooling up the turbo faster on the q/m but that ill still have to think about after a few runs as i want to know what times im in and if its close to the mid 11s im chasing or not..

so far im thinking ill have it up to 300rwkw and around 17-19psi alto im tempted to test the internals limits :D as i dont mind rebuilding it at the moment just not now.. maybe in a few months time when and if i get bored of 300kw which I should be happy with.

thanks for all the pms :woot: much appreciated. post here tho cuz my inbox keeps gettin full

Edited by drmafia

I wonder, when people say RB25's can handle x amount of hp, is this from first hand experience, or just regurgitating what has been said on the internet? I made 400rwhp for about a year, and now I'm close to 500rwhp for the past 6 months (haven't dyno'd it yet) @ 1.5 bar on a stock motor/headgasket/intake.

Now I can buy another RB25 for like $300 USD, so I can be more adventurous, but I'm not planning on blowing up motors just for the heck of it.

Ive first hand seen limits of stock RB25 parts.

As has many others.

Jap 400rwhp isn't the same as what we get here due to different brands of dyno, measurements etc from what ive read, and other users' first hand experiences (more than one now).

haha i like what u saying there :D i guess i might pump it up hight i just want to know what the standard internals/head gaskit can take .. well not realy but wana be just under the limit .. or at it, to be honest dont wana rebuild it b4 i have too thats all. so where can u get a rb25 for 300usd !! thats dirt cheap haha if u gana put 400hp outa an engin that u buy for 300usd.

i was thinking 440hp but so far everyones been discareging that without any proofing and evedance that to back up how ever i guess their expeeriance is that thats starting to push limits.. if anyone has blown engins here please advice where it gave up and why :woot: that could come handy

Even if you want to say Jap dyno's aren't accurate (they are inirtia, so they aren't super accurate), your talking about 2-4% at most. So knock off 20hp to what I said if you like.

Nismoid, what have you seen break? I'm not discounting, just curious what a lot have people have found to be the weak link. I suspect ring lands, but I think that has more to do with tune and keep knock down, and less to do with hp levels.

as i said iv already payed for it and thats the two they have in stock and i dont realy wana wate for them to get me some from jap.. so ill probebly go with the 38mm and play with the springs i guess to get the boost wanted.. ill leave that to my tuner to figure out.

why have you limited yourself to those 2 wastegates? 38 is a touch small, 60 is waaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy oversized. go for a 44mm

ringlands are the common death.

Sometimes pistons (due to poor tuning), or rods due to a bit more stress/RPM than should be applied.

Ive seen stress on other parts as well with over 25psi+ in the belly of it

Not saying Jap dynos arent accurate, its just their results differ to what we would see here by a noticeable margin (not 2%).

I've got a 38mm HKS wastegate with no boost creep, but I run pretty high boost and I have heard the holset turbines exhaust side flow real well for their size due to the exhaust wheel design. Just what I've heard though, but I don't boost creep.

isnt it the spring in the gate that controls the boost ? and the size controls high or low ?

im thinking of runing about 17-19 psi which is more than enough to make that 300rwkw "or just a lil more" that im going for at the moment. where do we get the springs from ? or dose it come with a few springs when they send it ?

i should actually be asking the ppl i bought it from this question.

If your running a lot of boost the gate doesnt have to pass a lot of air, hence your boost shouldn't creep provided you run lots of it with a 38mm

yes, but if your running less boost, the gate must pass MORE air, and if its only 38mm, it might not be able to do this (pass the airflow).

And hence you wont be able to control boost correctly.

The turbosmart 45mm gates are a good size for most applications from 15-25psi

runing a Pfc as the computer at the moment and im happy with it, the beeR is on as i said b4 just for some fireworks at times to keep up with a friends antylag.. but its actuly more there for launch control.. i dont use it much no more and i might take it off with the new setup.. as i dont realy wana hurt my brand new gt35r or internals that im pusshin to max..

if your looking to run 17-19 every day you might get away with a 38mm. when you say you've already paid for it, is it just a choice between those two or do you have to pay more for the 60??? if its just a choice of taking one get the 60, but im guessing its not so get the 38

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