Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep that's cool. I know a guy in Japan that is going to send them over for me. Are there any cheaper alternatives to the Cusco's?

If you wants branded type wants like cusco, JIC, ikeya. Its almost the same price within A$50 difference. So its just a matter of preference. Unless you want to go for the generic brands ones. Like its japanese but no brands or some name they give it. Like Dmax or something. Probably you can try and look in the stagea section in Yahoo auction.

Heres the link to one of the generic brand ones. They claim to be Made in Japan.

http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h39417299

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200477-camber-arms/#findComment-3567465
Share on other sites

When adjusting camber on the rear you should not only adjust the length of the upper arm but also the length of traction rod to match. If you don't you will end up with noticeable bump steer as the steering arm and the traction rod will fight the length of the upper control arm as the suspension goes up and down, causing toe changes. That's why the Whiteline rear camber kit comes with 4 offset bushes (2 each side) so that you can adjust both the upper control arm AND the traction rod.

In case you haven't read it, this thread explains why using spherical bearings in road cars is not a very good idea.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wr...mp;hl=spherical

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200477-camber-arms/#findComment-3567474
Share on other sites

Thanks for the post Gary.

To be honest, the main reason that I want aftermarket arms is that I plan on lowering my car quite a lot. Obviously I'll fore go a bit of handling in doing so, but I'm prepared to wear that as a cost (I won't be driving the car that much anyway). Are there any other alternatives aside from the bushes themselves that may be a better option?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200477-camber-arms/#findComment-3567808
Share on other sites

Thanks for the post Gary.

To be honest, the main reason that I want aftermarket arms is that I plan on lowering my car quite a lot. Obviously I'll fore go a bit of handling in doing so, but I'm prepared to wear that as a cost (I won't be driving the car that much anyway). Are there any other alternatives aside from the bushes themselves that may be a better option?

What's "quite a lot"? Have you done your research on what is required for whatever "quite a lot" is? What sized (offest/width) wheels are you going to use at the "quite a lot" height? Have you considered flared guards, rolled lips, removal of the plastic inner guards, drive shaft angles, bump steer, tyre clearance to the lower spring seats on the rear, Ackerman angle changes on the front, exhaust system size in relation to ground clearance etc etc. Do you know how much camber you need to remove at the "quite a lot" height so that the wheels, whatever offset/width they are, still clear whatever it is that you have done to the guards?

Camber correction is the easiest to solve of your problems, once you know how much you need. I would be very surprised if 2 camber correction kits (Whiteline or Noltec) don't do the job just fine.

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200477-camber-arms/#findComment-3568245
Share on other sites

I have the wheels already - width and offset should be perfect for a Stagea. I'll need to roll the lips a tiny bit.. Not sure how I'll go with the plastic guards yet.

Tyre clearance should be ok due to the offset of the wheels, but I'll probably end up taking the coilover route anyway so I can get it that bit lower.

As mentioned, I know I have to fore go some handling for looks but I'm fine with that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200477-camber-arms/#findComment-3568331
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...