Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dose any one know how the yellow plastic fuel pump holder is clipped in or held in the tank for a R32 GTR, I want to take it out to make better mounts on it to mount my aftermarket fuel pump in the tank. Or try and make a better pick up as I am getting fuel surge in right handers at Oran Park GP,

It seems to be clipped in some how and has a slight amount of movement all of 3mm where it's clipped in from but I can not find a release clip,

Don't want to push to hard on it as could be bit brittle from having over 15 years of fuel on it, and don't want to be fishing plastic bit out of my tank.

Or how do other people mount aftermarket fuel pumps in the tank?

I don't want to fit a surge tank in the boot as I need boot space when I take the car on holidays, hate listing to noisy fuel pumps from a surge tank, or fit a fuel cooler to keep fuel temp down when a surge tank it fitted. Just want to get the best possible use out of the standard set up with a bigger pump.

Any help would be great!

the clips are at the base they are about .5cm high and are on each side of the bracket right at the bottom. can be very stiff after all this time, but if you break them you will need a new bracket (otherwise it will float around the tank)

the standard fuel pump has a little arm with a sock filter on the end that goes right to the bottom of the tank. aftermarket like the bosch pumps dont normally have this but you might be able to refit the arm to the aftermarket ones

but really, the best way to stop the surge is just run a little more fuel (over 1/4 tank) Oran Park off the bridge is about the worst it gets.

i did a fuel pump installs on a few r32's and have realised that the 044 fuel pump with an earls fitting on the end of it seems like it was purposely fabricated for the r32 fuel tank and bracket. i mounted it on the standard bracket with no dramas at all, and sat around 5-7mm from the bottom of the tank.

this is what it looked like after getting it on, but this was on a gts-t, im not sure if its the same on a gtr:

post-13452-1199885181_thumb.jpg

pm r32woohoo as he supplied the fittings for his install.

the 044's have their own strainer, just like the 040's. if you have a look inside the pick-up there is a fine steel mesh.

Thats Duncan for your help, was able to get the whole mount out, mount the pump on there better played around and

got it as low as possible.

Also thanks Security for your help looks like the pick up is totaly differnat on GTS-T to GTR?

GTR pump mounts on the bottom of the tank in a little cradle surge pot.

Thanks again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...