Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gary at www.Japsalon.com in the UK was making one for the GTT.....

Not sure how he's going with it but maybe worth an email? :blush:

That looks like a pretty difficult project... keeping the lines looking as natural as possible. Here's a GTR rear for a ER34 GTT from Japan. This might be a lot easier and looks to be a better/natural fit..... +50mm. ($315USD a set!)

chapado1972-img600x434-1197532111er34bnr34modelb.jpg

chapado1972-img600x435-1197532114er34bnr34modelc.jpg

These will get your GTT looking like a GTR... not any wider than that.

If you want to go wider you'll have to get a superwide R34 GTR Bodykit... but that's a lot of work and $$$

645236_80_full.jpg

645236_79_full.jpg

645236_78_full.jpg

Edited by funkymonkey
  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thanks again for your help, does look like alot of work and big $$$ but thats fine, wanted to respray the car anyway.

At least it will be one of the nicest GTTs on the street.

I hear that! Super wide body with the high arched front fenders makes a R34 GTT look like a real GT500 car. I'm thinking about putting my plans on hold and factoring in the GTR rear guards so I can get some dish at the rears.... $315 a set seems like a steal and it looks like a fairly easy project. Depending on the labor costs, I'll probably end up doing that.

The pics above of the superwide body kit is from an American, Derick. I think he's stationed in Germany. I e-mailed him some years ago about other issues before he started his project. I checked my e-mails but I can't find his contact info... sorry. I know he can given you some good insight if you can find a way to contact him. He's on cardomain.com.

No way super wide kit it to much effort, Daily driven car with that much plastic is going to atract way to much attention..

The gear you found me is awesome, ill be getting wide fenders too..

Now wheel choice will be the hardest part.. Really no idea what to get..

spent all that on a N/A?? :P

DECIM8, pics are coming soon dude :P

how much are you actually looking at spend after EVERYTHING. Parts, labour, spray, wheels + tyres???

yep, de-badge, with FMIC, and oh, btw there were no hoses n piping connected to it.

eh

sick paint job but

No plan.. So far it looks like about 8G..

4G for rims and tyres and then 4 grand for body work, perhaps more.

Looks like I'm pushing over 11k for my project... 4k for the rims/tires, 2k for the respray and engine spray, ~6k for the east bear kit/aero hood/front+rear wide fenders/led taillights/gandor mirrors and a sunroof.... it makes me sick how much money I'm throwing into this ride :teehee: ...

east bear won't fit wide fenders. they're designed for standard GTT guards

and we're all remembering that R34 GTR's have come down a lot in price (well, exchange rate has played its role) and with the budgets you guys are talking about, ontop of what you'd get for your cars, you're not that far off a GTR

east bear won't fit wide fenders. they're designed for standard GTT guards

and we're all remembering that R34 GTR's have come down a lot in price (well, exchange rate has played its role) and with the budgets you guys are talking about, ontop of what you'd get for your cars, you're not that far off a GTR

The fenders I'm getting are for GTT's only, 20mm wider and vented.. stock replacement and was told it works with stock bumper (it tapers back) so east bear won't be a problem.

While a R34 GTR would be fun to own, the next step for me is a Pearl Black R35. I'm a US citizen living in S.Korea so my situation is kinda complicated. My GTT really isn't worth anything since Japan is so close and you can get them a dime a dozen. Due to my visa status here, I cannot sell my GTT to any local without them paying a huge tax so it wouldn't be worth it for any locals. I really have to invest in my GTT, ship it to my home in Florida and it'll sell for 55+k easy. It'll take a year or 2 until I'm ready to leave and by that time I'll have the savings for a R35. I always wanted a R34 GTR but it would have to be a V Spec Nur II and that's $$$. I did a cheap RB26DETT swap with my GTT and I'm pushing 432whp at the moment so I don't think I'm missing out too much not getting a R34 GTR. There's no tracks for me to track so I have no worries about time trials n such... just good'ol highway crusies. AWD is a slight atvantage given my everyday driving conditions but really not worth it in comparison in price difference. I'm spending a lotta money now but hopefully it'll all play out right in the end.

Ever tried to drive a GTR to work every day and park it on the street?

I just wanna make it something no one has.. cant say ive yet to see one wide body gtt cruising nsw streets.. Especially a daily

No thanks

P.s you just spent $2000 on side skirts and a rear bar :(

Edited by DECIM8

Have you guys looked at Cross Factory guards? They've only been around since... oh... 2002 :yes:

website... including pricing:

http://www.cross-factory.com/R34.htm

pics:

02_b.jpg

03_b.jpg

R34a.jpg

Have you guys looked at Cross Factory guards? They've only been around since... oh... 2002 :teehee:

website... including pricing:

http://www.cross-factory.com/R34.htm

That's just the GTR front and rear guards for a GTT right? Or is it wider? Looks the same as a GTR.

its supposed to make a narrow body look just like a GTR, but be *slightly* wider without looking too different to a standard GTR.

Its front guards, rear guards, side skirt and front n rear bumpers. and I think a splitter for the front bumper from memory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...