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i couldnt imagine a stock car like mine having an engine go bang without any mods

sure general maintenance will be required but after all, it is an old car

then again

you would expect a rb26 to be a tough motor

hence maybe i will take out the boost restrictor

but i should probs do an exhaust for this

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i

you would expect a rb26 to be a tough motor

It is tough but detonation will kill any motor

Give it the right conditions (shit fuel, clogged injectors, 18 year old fuel pump, 40 degree + days) and youre tempting fate

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yeah the compression is pretty low, should be up to 160psi, and 120 is the low acceptable limit in the workshop manual.

but that assumes it was all done correctly:

engine warm

all plugs out

throttle open

good battery charge

and that your gauge is accurate.

generally, as long as the readings are fairly even (and those ones are) then the actual readings are less important.

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Im with Duncan, compression numbers generally dont matter so long as they are all close. And they are, so i think its safe to assume your ok.

Its the same with dynos. Peak power doesnt mean a great deal as it varies from dyno to dyno. I tend to try stick to the one dyno and go for gains rather than peak.

For example, my old Integra Type R made 136fwkw with a cold air intake, stock everything else.

Later at a different dyno with the addition of Mugen 4-1 headers made 120fwkw... Then again, on the 2nd dyno shop with the addition of a Mugen Twinloop catback and de-cat it made 133fwkw.. gains FTW.

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EDIT: That compression is shit too.

mate

i dont see what your basing this on

and im sure the proprietor of RE knows more about engine health.

along with the rest of the members on here who are actually writing useful information!

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like some of the others have stated, get a full service done first (oils, timing belt, water pump etc) and put on a descent 3" cat back exhaust and high flow cat and pod air filters. these wont be putting too much strain on the engine (or turbos)

also how does ur intake plenum look? alot of paint flaking/missing ? or is it all completely black?

ps. congrats on the purchase, hopefully mine comes soon :|

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like some of the others have stated, get a full service done first (oils, timing belt, water pump etc) and put on a descent 3" cat back exhaust and high flow cat and pod air filters. these wont be putting too much strain on the engine (or turbos)

also how does ur intake plenum look? alot of paint flaking/missing ? or is it all completely black?

ps. congrats on the purchase, hopefully mine comes soon :|

yeah

that was something i was looking out for

the intake plenum has very minor paint flakes up near the back, as i said very minor tho

and no real indication to show it has been re painted

Edited by gtrzilla
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You don't sound convinced on mods. You obviously want a mild GT-R (which is still excellent!) so leave it at exhaust/intake/ECU and remove the boost restriction is my thought on that.

Otherwise i'd fork out some decent cash (like $1000+) on some heavy servicing because it's an old car. If you want to avoid a rebuild then spend the time/money to freshen up the engine, drivetrain fluids and other worn parts (oil/water pumps and things like brake rotors/lines, suspension, clutch, belts).

I'd spend big there before modding the car, if at all. The car will run better and do it for longer too.

Stronger car = safer mods

Have fun!

Edited by R338OY
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Another thing i could suggest is whilst doing the timing belt(and tensioners) is pull the oil pump off and loctite the bolts that hold the two halves together. I would do as you suggest and leave the boost down. When you want to turn it up, get some steel wheel turbos and a remap

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