Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone, decided its come to a time to move on as iv fell in love with another car but for people who dont know i built this from ground up,

item: r32 gtst skyline

location: brisbane

body has done 118,000kms motor has done 90,000

RB20DET - 5 Speed Manual

Chipped ECU

GTR front mount

Exeddy heavy duty clutch

AFM

Steel intake piping

Pod filter

Bleed valve

3 inch stainless dump pipe with screamer

3 inch front pipe

3 1/2 straight pipe

Eibach Potenza coilovers front 11kg

Kyb springs in rear

D-Project adjustable castor rods

D-Project adjustable camber arms

Greddy catch can

Hicas lockbar

GTR fuel pump

Short shifter

Standard LSD

Cusco front strut brace

HKS Super sequential blow off vave

Bride seat (will come with, for right price)

Fire extinguisher

Defi boost gauge

GTR steering wheel

Turbo timer

Stripped interior and sound deadening

Safety 21 6 Point Roll cage (side intrusion bars not fitted but will be included)

Standard Gtst Front bar,skirts and pods

Flared front guards

Paint : Matt black

Spoiler removed

Black Drift Teks +25 offset 17 x 9

Steer Tyres: Intensa Sava's 235/45/17

and a pair of stocko r33's

bad bits:

-speedo cable broke about 500 - 1000km ago

- paint and panel isnt the best

does not come with rego or rwc....

10k!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!ONO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

no low ballers please

PM ME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PLEASE NOTE THESE PICTURES ARE FROM A MONTH OR TWO AGO CAR SITS ALOT LOWER NOW AND HAS DIFFERENT RIMS

any more pics just ask

Copyofuntitled.jpg

100_0638.jpg

100_0594.jpg

thanks

josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201525-r32-skyline-4-saleswap/
Share on other sites

OMG. This car is so shit.... I say that ONLY because I love it and I don't want Josh to sell it :D Gonna miss seeing it everyday up the street :P Sounds phat with straight pipe, screamer & SSQ BOV. Slides nicely too :(

Good luck with the sale man, and whoever buys this is getting one very phat pig :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...