Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i been around the forums for years and had a manual in my stagea since late 2004, and finally decided ill fork out the cash for a manual console to clean the interior up abit.

i searched the forums looking for part numbers for the console, and drink holder, ash tray etc and cant find them anywhere.

can someone list the parts needed to swap my auto console for a manual one? and part numbers if they have them and cost from Nissan? or anywhere that has then cheaper? can i reuse any parts from my auto console on the manual one to save buying things twice? i remember someone on the forums worked for nissan and said the whole lot was around $750 from him, who was it and is he still around? i got a price ages ago on it and it was like $1000 or so.

so far i can think of...

console shell

ashtray?

shifter surround

rear drink holders?

money tray?

console lid and storage area

what else?

cheers fellas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201563-which-manual-console-parts-needed/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...html&st=120

Post 139

Buy parts thru www.japanparts.com direct from japan, will be cheaper than nissan aust.

With a good exchange rate now, should be around $700-750 delivered

Just read thru that thread to be sure on all the part numbers.

My s/hand console cost me approx $600 del 18 months ago, I haven't seen once since for sale, they are rare.

hey mate none of the auto stuff fits i have a manual vin number it is 6u900wgnc34137969. this is what i used to get bits for my mates stagea that i converted and all brand new you should get away with it for under a grand . hope this helps cheers bernard.i have part numbers some where just got to find where i put them.

I was talking to a bloke the other day that was just about to convert his Stagea and he reckons he is going to use a R34 manual console.. Has anyone done this?

I looked into doing this. The R34 console from the gear stick back is very similiar, approx 10-15mm less in width. The r34 console from the gear stick forward is different and will not match the stagea dash. I was thinking doing a cut and shut with the 2 console. Would require some fancy welding and repaint.

yeh i also looked into that and wouldnt work .but i no the black part of the console was 180 brand new the most expensive part is the gear stick surround looking at 225 for that . you can re use your old ash tray in the front part and a r33 coin tray fits . but as for the lid and cup holders you either have to buy gen or do what we done and modify the auto one which took some time and doesnt look that great.as for the cup holders we just put stainless in the hole to cover it .but that my opinion. good luck with it .

but also there are 3 different consoles to pic from all are different. the vin i posted is the console i have used .but in my own car i have a 260rs console which does not have rear cup holders or ash tray .

cheers guys i searched the forums and it came up with heaps of threads but nothing that i was after as usual :)

Dale the stagea is in motorvation and going great at moment, tune is tommorow for around 500rwhp and nice and safe.

CanaryGSR, yer cars going good and hopefully it lasts abit longer than my last engine :)

Thanks Darrin ill check out the info mate, appreciate the help

Hey Duncan ive spent alot of cash and never been a fan of buying cosmetic stuff as power is always my number one priority ;) but the bunky looking console is not doing the interior any justice and with certainly makes things look neater.

Just having a read of Beastiens post on the manual conversion thread and he lists all the parts but misses a couple of part no's...

Part Numbers:

96911-0V800 Body-Console

96920-0V800 Lid-Console Box

68430-0V800 Holder Assy-Cup

96935-0V800 Boot-Console

96965-AA001 Holder Assy-Cup

These items are for a Z interior, which is black with the grey roof and rear trim.

The rear ashtray is the same throughout the models

The front ashtray is a slightly different colour so heres the part number to match the RS4S console.

68800-0V700

So is that saying the rear ashtray is the same as a auto one (the one i already have)?

is there any parts missing from that list before i order?

cheers

Edited by unique1
  • 2 weeks later...
I will have a spare one of these in about a weeks time

Mine!

If nobody else has put their hand up yet! Provided it matches my interior: will you have it in time for the meet??

unique1, did you go ahead with your order? happy with what you received?

hey mate, havent got around to it yet i been buying other bits and pieces, but will order it one day in the near future. I have been focusing on getting everything engine wise all finished and complete, still some bits to go yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...