Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone got a tutorial (with pics) on how to remove the center console including aircon and Popup TV unit.

I have a R34 GT-T (1999) with the Popup screen instead of the 3 guages. I thought it was kool at first but there seems to be no way to change it... So iv decided to rip it all out and spend 3000.00 on Alpine stuff + how eva much it cost to get cusom console made.

Here is a list of alpine stuff:

IVA-W202E.jpgIVA-W202E

2-DIN DVD/CD/MP3/WMA Receiver/AV Head Unit

PDX-1_600.jpgPDX-1.600

Mono Power Density Digital Amplifier

SBR-S122V.jpgSBR-S122V

Type-R 12" (30cm) Subwoofer Enclosure

TUE-T200DV.jpgTUE-T200DV

Digital TV Tuner

SPS-69C3.jpgSPS-69C3

Type-S 6x9" (15 x 23cm) Coaxial 3-Way Speaker

+ sound stream lil wonder III ( already have)

I can see there will be a few problem with the console.

1) For starters the console goes up in a V shape.

2) The order of my console goes like this. Popup screen on top, then Aircon under it. Then Popup screen controls + disc insert, then Climate controls. Then the Radio/tape player and ashtray. So the stuff I want to keep is the Aircon + aircon controls. nothing else...but it is goin to look sh!t if i keep same structure and have nothing in the spaces.

Below pics of same layout as mine, altho i have tv not guages.

a134b53a.jpgline_interior_1.jpg

So yer if anyone has any info on this or tutorials it, please send them on.

I would really like to start planning my console before i just rip it out. So pics would also be great.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201800-r34-head-unit-install-help/
Share on other sites

Here's a link that has a quick explanation in it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...io-t190792.html

1 - First pull out the ashtray and undo the screw behind it.

2 - Pull up the gear stick surround and undo the 2 silver screws at the bottom left/right of the storage bin.

3 - Using a thin flat blade screwdriver on the left side, prise out the 2 vents at the top of the console and disconnect the unit.

4 - Undo the 2 silver screw at the top of the heater controls.

5 - Pull out the heater controls, radio & stage bin (all in a cage together).

6 - Remove the radio from the cage (2 screws each side) and fit your radio.

7 - Using the following parts PC2-76-4 and PC5-87 connect your radio to the cars plugs.

8 - Refit going from step 5

Im not sure if its exactly what you need to know with your setup but it'll give you an idea. I took mine out and it wasnt very difficult

followed that the other day, very simple to do, easier than most cars id have to say, but thas the one

sorry missed the part about havin the pop up dash, tho it should be the same to pull out the front of the console to get access to the wires etc... behind

Edited by RusH_

Yeah done it your right was simple. Had to make new facier but in end looks sweet.

I pulled out all the CD unit and the Radio/Tape unit. Left the popup tv (altho nothing to make it popup now, but that will come later).

I shaved a bit off the side of the Aircon controls and pushed it down to the bottom. which left enough room for the W202E.

Later on im goin to pull out the TV unit and put a playstation 2 (mini) under the lid, but ill keep you posted on that.

Ill upload pics tonight.

  • 3 weeks later...

Not yet decided on what ill do with the popup tv.. its still in there but no power or source running to it. It looks kinda complicated to get somthing else wired up. Um for surround sound, I decided not to get 6x9's and got type S 6.5" splits in front, type S 6" in rear (altho rear run off lil wonder soundstream amp..rather pdx) then Type R sub in boot with PDX1.600 also now strapped in so no sliding :) Playstatin is in glovebox, and tv tuner is under pasenger seat.

Got whole setup + install 3,000:

Sound stream Lil wonder (This wasnt the one i already had, they threw in another, cause myn was mono)

Alpine PDX1.600

Alpine IVA-W202E

Alpine 4xType S 6.5"

Alpine 2x type S tweeters.

Alpine 2xSplitters

Alpine 1xType R 12" Sub, in box.

Alpine TUE-T200DV tv tuner.

System sounds really good, but i if i could do it all agin i would have saved up extra $ and got this this deal.

AV Plus Theatre System - $3499.00

• IVA-W202E MOBILE MEDIA RECEIVER

• KCE-422i iPod FULL SPEED CABLE

• KCE-300BT BLUETOOTH PHONE INTERFACE

• PDX-4.100 PDX DIGITAL 4-CH POWER AMPLIFIER

• PDX-1.600 PDX DIGITAL MONO POWER AMPLIFIER

• SPR-17S TYPE-R 6.5” COMPONENT SPEAKERS

• SPR-17C TYPE-R 6.5” COAXIAL SPEAKERS

• SWR-1222D TYPE-R SUBWOOFER

Then + the TV tuner.

But what can ya do :D

Tekken at the lights woot :)

Hey I like what youve done, Can you please show me some pics of ur tv tuner and playstation in glove box?

I wana do something similar, im happy with the sound just want to wack in a tv and watch dvds and play playstation. Any advice on what tv to get? size etc?

Cheers buddy!

  • 3 months later...

looks nice :blink:

How much was the custom console? I was thinking off getting a new head unit so i could play Mp3s and usb. I found a good deal on one and asked about installation and he said that to get a custom din was $200 plus. I didnt go ahead with it cos it sounded like a rip off to me. This is JB HI-FI btw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...