Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, just wondering what your predictions are for my new donk. should be rolling out hopefully tomorrow or monday at worst. oh the suspense after sitting in the driveway for 4 months!

R33 GTS25t

-pod

-3in exhaust (possibly dump as well, output seems pretty good)

177rwkw

now with:

-replacement engine

-kkr430 turbo

-fmic

-forward facing plenum

-440cc injectors

-fuel pump

-bov

im thinking ill go for 13-14 psi boost. and am hoping for at least 200rwkw, optimistically 210. what do you think?

also, 1/4 mile on 255 bridgestones? im thinking 13.3? am i having a wank dreaming of 13.0?

haha appreciate any input. bear in mind this is the 2nd engine ive had to replace in 9 months so funds for bigger mods have been hard to come by.

i am looking forward to pulling apart my wrecked motor, some may remember it getting a compression test of 0psi in one of the cylinders. so i might post some pics when i get stuck into that. also, im hoping the head is fine so there might be a few bits for sale soon.

thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202079-performance-predictions/
Share on other sites

i have read that on an r33 the KKR480 was good for 270RWKW at 18psi, i 'd say the 200-210 make your thinking would be about right.. if not slightly higher..

are you running some sort of piggy back ECU or full aftermarket??

Well a bonnet down 177rwkw is a high 12 over the 1/4 if you have something remotely wide tyre wise on the rear and you have by a long way. I'd say if that pod filter has no cold air partition and feed the 177 is more like 150 realistically on the road.

You have aftermarket engine management right?

If drag racing is something you want to have a go at then things like some pineapples for the rear diff cradle wouldn't hurt and hopefully you have an upgraded clutch in there too.

A 12 should be so easy it isn't funny if you are making a genuine 210rwkw bonnet down.

:D

i have read that on an r33 the KKR480 was good for 270RWKW at 18psi, i 'd say the 200-210 make your thinking would be about right.. if not slightly higher..

are you running some sort of piggy back ECU or full aftermarket??

thats alright! but mines a 430, not a 480 :D

well, no im strapped for cash, so im remapping the stocko ecu. which is not ideal i realise, but i will get a pfc by my 21st in july hopefully.

I'd say if that pod filter has no cold air partition and feed the 177 is more like 150 realistically on the road.

A 12 should be so easy it isn't funny if you are making a genuine 210rwkw bonnet down.

wha? the pod doesnt have a box or anything, though if you think its wasting that much power i might have to make something up! surely its not worth 25kw though? :D

yeh as i said above, remapping stocko ecu because i havent got the cash atm. but i will go pfc for sure.

im not really that into the drags, but i would like to know my times just so i can ram them up my commo-loving mates. not sure how long the clutch will last though :D but my tyres seem to develop a lot of traction certainly compared to the ones i had previously (theyd bloody want to for $425 each)

12s!! sweet as!

wha? the pod doesnt have a box or anything, though if you think its wasting that much power i might have to make something up! surely its not worth 25kw though? :D

yeh as i said above, remapping stocko ecu because i havent got the cash atm. but i will go pfc for sure.

im not really that into the drags, but i would like to know my times just so i can ram them up my commo-loving mates. not sure how long the clutch will last though :D but my tyres seem to develop a lot of traction certainly compared to the ones i had previously (theyd bloody want to for $425 each)

12s!! sweet as!

Yep it's worth a fair whack alright. The engine bay air is often 70+deg C around town on a hot day it's hotter again, it's not a good thing really.

If you are getting a full remap (fuel and ignition) then thats fine although I thought the R33 remaps were as pricey as a powerFC?

It's 12's when you actually do it on the strip. Not a lot of point talking about how fast your car is going to be but, rather just go and see. :D

Yep it's worth a fair whack alright. The engine bay air is often 70+deg C around town on a hot day it's hotter again, it's not a good thing really.

If you are getting a full remap (fuel and ignition) then thats fine although I thought the R33 remaps were as pricey as a powerFC?

wow. thats some hot air. so what do you have to do? shield the pod from the engine bay, with plastic or something? heat wrap? or redirect it somehow so its drawing cooler air?

i have been told they charge hourly rate to do ecu's, which should equate to maybe $3-400 at worst. i dont see how it could cost more than that! it would be a waste of time if it did.

thats alright! but mines a 430, not a 480 :D

well, no im strapped for cash, so im remapping the stocko ecu. which is not ideal i realise, but i will get a pfc by my 21st in july hopefully.

know that, that why i said around the 200 -210rwkw mark, i didn't think there was anyone re-mapping the r33 ECU? and charging by the hour sounds more like dyno time then re-mapping the ECU?

may be an SAFC / SAFC 2 could be a good cheaper option than the re-map? you should be able to get a good second hand one for $200-250 then at a good tuner maybe and hours tune.. $100-150... you can also re-sale the safc once you get the PFC hehehe..

Good luck finding a pfc.................

There impossible to fine

well brand new i mean...............And you dont wanna get them second hand....

Btw with your turbo you will have shit load of lag

Warlord You got luck bro..................

You never know what is wrong with the unit when it is second hand .....

there has been alot of story of people buying dud

I think it is time you look at others than the Pfc

dont get me wrong the PFC is the best ................... But now there is better

Warlord You got luck bro..................

You never know what is wrong with the unit when it is second hand .....

there has been alot of story of people buying dud

I think it is time you look at others than the Pfc

dont get me wrong the PFC is the best ................... But now there is better

I've never heard of a 'dud' power FC purchase to date, not that it may not happen, just seems to be by far the exception ot the rule.

Searching this forum you struggle to find someone complaining of a dud purchase....

I've never heard of a 'dud' power FC purchase to date, not that it may not happen, just seems to be by far the exception ot the rule.

Searching this forum you struggle to find someone complaining of a dud purchase....

rev m8...............................

I bought a brand new PFC in novemeber and it was a dud.....Luckly i bought it from a dealer so there for i go my money back. there has been heaps of story of pfc being duds and yeah for tuners.........................these are computers the bound to be faulty

Anyway i hav now in my car an EMS 8860................. it is rated highly and my car is done at bel garage and the masters at tuning....

Pfc are still the best comps around but the becoming rare.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
×
×
  • Create New...