Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone confirm the correct grease to use on the whiteline bush kits from Sydneykids group buy?

The little satchels of grease supplied should be enough for installing but as the front camber kits have grease nipples

I would like to make sure I use the right grease there.

Sure I read on here somewhere castrol LM just wanted to confirm it

cheers

Edited by noone
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202194-grease-for-whiteline-bushs/
Share on other sites

You can use almost any grease, it's not so critical. But generaly the better grease to use is that used in boat trailer wheel bearings. This application will be listed on the container, and its good stuff as its water proof.

Thanks for that SK kit looks good and I am looking forward to getting back on the track and improving the lap times

though the rear HICAS tierod looks a bit dodgy so might have to try an change that out to

Was curious a to whether i can just unbolt the driveshaft and arms etc an remove the hub to press it out or will I have to replace seals in the cv joint or balljoints

as well if I can split the lower ball joint and hub without damaging the boot etc I think its doable

will be giving it a go thursday any advice much appreciated at this point

Thanks for that SK kit looks good and I am looking forward to getting back on the track and improving the lap times

though the rear HICAS tierod looks a bit dodgy so might have to try an change that out to

Was curious a to whether i can just unbolt the driveshaft and arms etc an remove the hub to press it out or will I have to replace seals in the cv joint or balljoints

as well if I can split the lower ball joint and hub without damaging the boot etc I think its doable

will be giving it a go thursday any advice much appreciated at this point

I am not sure that I understand the question, so I appologise in advance if the following doesn't answer it.

It is not necessary to remove the upright/hub from the car to replace a rear steering arm ball joint. Simply undo the locking nut on the inner joint of the rear steering arm. Then use a ball joint splitter to separate the rear steering tie rod from the upright/hub. Simply unscrew the ball joint fro mthe steering arm. Reverse process with replacement ball joint.

Cheers

Gary

Cheers mate thinking you are referring to the ball joint at the inner, where it attach's to the HICAS lock bar yeah?

My problem is the one that Is pressed (?)into the hub itself, there is movement there

the inner (the part that screws into the lock bar) seems nice an tight.

I will have a chance to check it out better this arvo

unfortunately need the car drivable next week for dynoing, so final alignment issue's may have to be dealt with after that

was just keen to get a workable alignment so wasnt to much of a handful when on the dyno

cheers anyway

Edited by noone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...