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Can anyone confirm the correct grease to use on the whiteline bush kits from Sydneykids group buy?

The little satchels of grease supplied should be enough for installing but as the front camber kits have grease nipples

I would like to make sure I use the right grease there.

Sure I read on here somewhere castrol LM just wanted to confirm it

cheers

Edited by noone
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You can use almost any grease, it's not so critical. But generaly the better grease to use is that used in boat trailer wheel bearings. This application will be listed on the container, and its good stuff as its water proof.

Thanks for that SK kit looks good and I am looking forward to getting back on the track and improving the lap times

though the rear HICAS tierod looks a bit dodgy so might have to try an change that out to

Was curious a to whether i can just unbolt the driveshaft and arms etc an remove the hub to press it out or will I have to replace seals in the cv joint or balljoints

as well if I can split the lower ball joint and hub without damaging the boot etc I think its doable

will be giving it a go thursday any advice much appreciated at this point

Thanks for that SK kit looks good and I am looking forward to getting back on the track and improving the lap times

though the rear HICAS tierod looks a bit dodgy so might have to try an change that out to

Was curious a to whether i can just unbolt the driveshaft and arms etc an remove the hub to press it out or will I have to replace seals in the cv joint or balljoints

as well if I can split the lower ball joint and hub without damaging the boot etc I think its doable

will be giving it a go thursday any advice much appreciated at this point

I am not sure that I understand the question, so I appologise in advance if the following doesn't answer it.

It is not necessary to remove the upright/hub from the car to replace a rear steering arm ball joint. Simply undo the locking nut on the inner joint of the rear steering arm. Then use a ball joint splitter to separate the rear steering tie rod from the upright/hub. Simply unscrew the ball joint fro mthe steering arm. Reverse process with replacement ball joint.

Cheers

Gary

Cheers mate thinking you are referring to the ball joint at the inner, where it attach's to the HICAS lock bar yeah?

My problem is the one that Is pressed (?)into the hub itself, there is movement there

the inner (the part that screws into the lock bar) seems nice an tight.

I will have a chance to check it out better this arvo

unfortunately need the car drivable next week for dynoing, so final alignment issue's may have to be dealt with after that

was just keen to get a workable alignment so wasnt to much of a handful when on the dyno

cheers anyway

Edited by noone

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