Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive just finnished converting my setup from the trust TD-06 20G with the 16c rear housing, to a garret GT3040R with a .63 rear housing

i also installed hks 264 9.1 cams with adj cam gears

for its first tune it made 346rwhp @22psi, but comes on almost 1000rpm earlier in the rev range! compared to when my car had the 405 hp tune with the td06, it actualy feels alot faster to drive now, this is all on a std head/bottom end

the gt35r will be a bit too big imo as for driveability, my recomendation is the garret gt3040

good luck

Adam

ive just finnished converting my setup from the trust TD-06 20G with the 16c rear housing, to a garret GT3040R with a .63 rear housing

i also installed hks 264 9.1 cams with adj cam gears

for its first tune it made 346rwhp @22psi, but comes on almost 1000rpm earlier in the rev range! compared to when my car had the 405 hp tune with the td06, it actualy feels alot faster to drive now, this is all on a std head/bottom end

the gt35r will be a bit too big imo as for driveability, my recomendation is the garret gt3040

good luck

Adam

haha i would not even contemplate using the 16 rear housing on a rotary.... it is way to big :( not a viable comparison. Fit a 1.0 housing to the GT3040 then it would be a closer comparo ;)

i had the TD05-20g 14 on my rb25 and even it was way to laggy for me here are the recommended sizes;

10 for rb25 and 8 for rb20... 10 on a rb20 if you want high 200's.

I still think the 20G is a great turbo for an RB20. The 2835 woudl be interesting, its just that no one seems to run them.

Re the 20G, i have run up to 20psi and there is no way my thing will ever get near 300rwkws. Even with cams etc? I havent seen that sort of power on a 25 let alone a 20, even with cams etc. Maybe if they were running a larger housing like AD4M is?!?!?!?

CRD do a good deal on them.

If your looking for heaps of power but not really interested in goodpower and more response get the .82 if u want a neck snapping response but with a little under 300kw.. get .63 id only get .82 if i had cams and a fully built engine or a 3L

I still think the 20G is a great turbo for an RB20. The 2835 woudl be interesting, its just that no one seems to run them.

Re the 20G, i have run up to 20psi and there is no way my thing will ever get near 300rwkws. Even with cams etc? I havent seen that sort of power on a 25 let alone a 20, even with cams etc. Maybe if they were running a larger housing like AD4M is?!?!?!?

for some reason it is only the L2 20g that will stretch into the 290-300rwkw range the S 20g wont come close unfortunately. I have customer / good family friend with an evo 6.5 TME (soon to be in hpi) making over 300awkw with a L2-20g (record for l2) on two separate nsw dyno's. and 2 customers with rb20's making 268-274rwkw at only 1.2ish bar. The S-20g tends to fall over at anything above 1.25-1.3bar. i reckon the L2 is like a T67 with 7/10ths the lag :D

I reckon no-one uses the HKS 2835 (0.61 56t) but us... because it is dear and difficult to source.

most of my customers tend to want 250-290rwkw with maximum response in thier sr's and rb's and taking a quick look and talking to many D1 teams it is easy to see why 9 out of the top 10 run greddy 06 or 67 variants because they offer the best balance between response and power and delivery is unique.

For 25 owners (wanting 280rwkw) i will post a T67 (8cm) vs gt3540 comparo that was done today up here 2moro..... very interesting and proves my point that bigger and less boost is backwards thinking. Final result was 10rwkw less up top but 40rwkw more through out the mid and only started to taper off right up top all at 1.15bar versus 1.2 with the 3540. Next test is 10cm housing on the T67 versus 8cm to guge exact response difference and peak power limit of it on a std (internal) rb25. i hazard to guess 320rwkw 1.2-1.3bar and 20rwkw throughout the whole rpm range over the 3540.

So the S 20G makes less power, but what is the trade off? Is the L2 any less responsive? What is the difference in the turbine? Number of blades, the pitch of blades, the diameter of the turbine?

LOL, sorry about all the questions :)

haha no stress, the L2 actually runs a smaller exhaust wheel 61mm compared to the 06S-20g (65mm) but the blade profile is totally differrent. It is the same as a T67. The compressor (front wheel) is identicle on 06S and L2. The L2 is rated to 430ps (which is nearly spot on what we squezed out of the EVO, i cannot match this with any NISSAN engine yet the best i can get is 400ps or just shy of 300kw) with an 8cm the 06S is rated the same but needs a 12cm housing to meet the max therefore becomes laggier. I cannot explain the L2 it is bit of a freak, all i can put it down to is the aggressive pitch and fewer blade setup on the l2.

haha yeah but remmeber you would be in a 31....(hides from wheezy)..... 1.5bar and 4000rpm aint exactly anything to write home about...

from all i know (very little) about the GTS-r (std rated 210 but actually closer to 260) is that 300hp is around the limit and anything above that requires alot of work including high flowing the turbo to GRP A specs, cams and the rods and pistons are known to be the limiting factor also. 260rwkw plus is well beyond what i have ever seen qouted with 220-240rwkw being the norm... even from R31 house in japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...