Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Or Cat Back?

jezzathejerm

By jezzathejerm,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RBwhatever Veteran

RBwhatever

Posted
Posted

Turbo back.

Cat back refers to the exhaust from the catalytic converter to the rear muffler (does not include the cat).

Turbo back refers to the exhaust from the turbo to the rear muffler. The whole thing basically.

So in essence,

Cat back = cat back

Turbo Back = dump pipe, front pipe, bigger cat, cat back

jenkies Mentor

jenkies

Posted
Posted

as your question asks whats better for my car... id say cat back because it helps keep your turbo running closer to factory conditions where as turbo back alows for more turbo rpm quicker spool up and better performance

correct me if im wrong please!

cheers and good luck

jenkies

krush Collaborator

krush

Posted
Posted

I don't get what you're saying Jenkies? Factory specs are quite restrictive and don't allow the turbo to perform as it's meant to. I dont see what's wrong witg quicker spool up and better performance?

If anything you DO want a turbo back, as it will be less restrictive, the turbo will spool up quicker and possilbe gain a psi or two due to the turbo being able to spin more freely.

Think like, the turbo can't get in more then it can put out, so if the exhaust is restrictive and the turbo can't spin those gases out, its only going to spin as fast as your exhaust will allow, so it won't be working as best it can.

shaun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • GTSBoy
      R34 manual conversion speed signal wire finding, need help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • GTSBoy
      First time Skyline owner

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...