Removing Rb26 Gearbox And Engine In One Hit.

[Angus Smart]

Ok i figure this way looks the easiest in my space and tools i have to work with. or someone please guide me if i am going a hard way about this..

I plan on removing the whole lot in one go and lifting the car up and over the motor/gearbox or sliding the motor out.. whatever comes at that point.

the gearbox doesnt really need to come out. so should i just take out the motor and leave the rest in? i have the trust front pipe kit so it may get in the way lifting the motor out?

i'll do a search on removing the rb26 if i have to hopefully theres a guide thru it!!

i've got an engine crane, jacks, stands, tools or someone will have what i need if i get stuck..

plan to do this on the weekend or monday.. see how it all goes.

also what time frame are you looking at for pulling it out? i'm a moderate worker and my friend is pretty quick and handy.

Cheers

Andrew

[Scooby]

i reckon leave it in if you can, i had to mod the gearbox housing to suit the RB30 block and therefore it had to come out. i've also got trust long pipes and the gearbox was a real problem to get back in as the pipes interfered. with care the engine went back in fine with them on.

leaving it in also means no atessa bleeding.

[Duncan]

we did engine and box together once and it was a PITA to get back into the engine bay with all that tilting. Then again until you have had too much practice some of the other bits like the top bellhousing bolts and starter motor bolts are tricky.

[benm]

If it doesn't need to come out why bother? Even if it did i'd drop it on its own. Then again i've never done it so wouldn't have a clue.

[Angus Smart]

i beleive i am just going to do the motor by itself now, i have pulled gearboxes off before and i know the bolts on it are probably about the worst part of the whole thing. so not really that much of a problem!!

now as for the questions regarding internals.

do i really need to pay the money for jap brand rods, and jap brand pistons (2500-3K) when you can get eagle and wiseco pistons for atleast half if not more than half the price ??(1300 at most)?

planning on going going .040 oversize and eagle h beam rods with arp 2000's unless otherwise???

shaving the head a little and give some more compression a nice thin headgasket what ever the engine builder recomends.

and then its time to finish off the dry sump!

[wrxhoon]

I find it easier to pull out engine/box together but each to their own.

Duncan, I don't find it hard at all, I use block and tacle on a fixed beam pull it up and then move the car back .

Angus, I preer to use jap pistons for a road car , much quieter than American pistons because you can run closer clearences .

[Angus Smart]

i dont have a block and tackle, only an engine crane some jack stands and a large jack. i dont wanna drive my car to my friends shop incase it f**ks up.

so running yank rods and jap pistons is ok? i gotta get my head around this soon! and start buying bits and pieces!

[Duncan]

whats wrong with aussie pistons from ACL?

Jerry - how do you manage the angle you need to get the gearbox/engine too - we just could not get it cleanly over the radiator support and ended up bending it

[mitchy_]

i found it easier to take them both out in one hit too... however it's a bit of a mission getting it back in, but i reckon it would be easier than trying to re-align the shaft and re-position the motor at the same time.

i got mine over the radiator support easy enough, i just crushed my power steering lines on the cross-member instead.

there is a item called an engine sling you can use to change the angle of the engine by screwing the threaded section.. would definately make it a bit easier!

[Angus Smart]

I guess i could go with acl also. depending on price

i've really got no idea about it at all. there is alot of product out there, last time i went with tomei, but 1600-2500 for just pistons is a bit of a joke.

is there anything wrong with eagle rods? and wiseco pistons? i can get them delivered @ $1285 usd and will probalby miss out on getting caught in customs for duties

i can go wiseco, cp, or je pistons. the later two bieng an extra 170 on top.

also some arp head studs for 255usd.

also concept on Ferrea valves 1mm oversize/guides/springs

https://www.horsepowerparts.com/index.php?c...p;rows_shown=20

if anyone wants to look and advise? there is the link for all the rb26 stuff

Edited January 23, 2008 by Angus Smart

[wrxhoon]

whats wrong with aussie pistons from ACL?

Jerry - how do you manage the angle you need to get the gearbox/engine too - we just could not get it cleanly over the radiator support and ended up bending it

I don't know how high your crane will lift Duncan, the trick is to lift it high on an angle at the same time have the car on stands so you can get the angle you need. I have done it on all 3 models this way without any problems .

Yes you will have to be carefull not to hit the power steer lines ( you need 2 people , one lifting the other watching). In anyway its a tight fit in there but I can't see it any easierjust taking the donk out unless you use a hoist.

Nothing wrong with ACL pistons, I just prefer Jap for a road car for the reasons I gave before, I would use yank pistons on a race car thats for sure , who cares about a blow-by and or piston slap on a race car..

Angus you can use any pistons and any rod combo you like, keep in mind cast pistons are quiet ( close clearences) and forged are rattly. Depending on the power you need/want, I would use my stock standard Nissan rods and i Nisan crank too.

[Angus Smart]

Yeah well i think its pushing more towards a race car these days, and the very occasional street.... as i am considering doing the engine right this time and doing a dry sump setup. and stripping out alot of weight and shit i dont need. tho air con i want.. haha

from that link above its either going to be je, cp , or the cheeper wisecos.

thinking of doing the whole ferrera 1mm oversize valves and the rest of the business there.