Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone...just would like to put the question out there, maybe get some feedback on this topic. r33 gtr at the moment im running power fc, exhaust, droppipes, cam gears, podfilters, 240awkw. going on the car is garrett 2860's, tomei dumppipes, bigger fuelpump, 770 injectors, greedy profect b 2,tripple plate clutch....my mechcanic said 370awkw is what i can get, but seen my engine has done 160k's that power figure is a bit high.....i discussed alot lower awkw, but more torque....i was thinking maybe around the 320-330awkw would be better for the engine (engine in mint condition high compression, no knocking or noises yet) any suggestions would be great.....cheers robbie

Edited by donkey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202835-more-power/
Share on other sites

i was thinking maybe around the 320-330awkw would be better for the engine (engine in mint condition high compression, no knocking or noises yet) any suggestions would be great.....cheers robbie

Logical thinkin there dude, thats a good idea, with your enigine km's that high. HKS GT-SS's or similar would be the go for that power range. These things will come on boost pretty much the same as the stock ones, and ripp your head off all the way to redline!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202835-more-power/#findComment-3599407
Share on other sites

oh dam, those turbos sound sweet, i guess when the engine gets a rebuild maybe the 2860's will be sweet for higher boost? i just got these turbos brand new for a real good price........

2860's would be awesome, dont get me wrong, im just givin you my 2 cents, as i was almost in the same position as you. I asked people what turbo for my power level and i couldn't count the number of people that replied with stuff like "man, HKS GT-SS's are the way to go, hands down for an insane street GTR"

If you got them for a good price bro ------> Go for it, strap those bad boys on and have some fun!!!! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202835-more-power/#findComment-3599451
Share on other sites

I've got your exact planned setup (2860-5), but without cams/cam gears. Currently have 290kw@4 and run a 11.8@117mph. I wouldn't call it laggy but I have not been in a GT-SS car to see the comparison... no doubt they're more responsive.

I've got poncams 260/260 9.15mm and cam gears being fitted at the moment... so not sure what I'll get after that, hopefully around 320kw@4 om the stock bottom end (I don't want to push it anymore) but we'll see.. just hoping to run over 120mph.

Hope this helps.

Tommo.

Edited by TommO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202835-more-power/#findComment-3600068
Share on other sites

I've got your exact planned setup (2860-5), but without cams/cam gears. Currently have 290kw@4 and run a 11.8@117mph. I wouldn't call it laggy but I have not been in a GT-SS car to see the comparison... no doubt they're more responsive.

I've got poncams 260/260 9.15mm and cam gears being fitted at the moment... so not sure what I'll get after that, hopefully around 320kw@4 om the stock bottom end (I don't want to push it anymore) but we'll see.. just hoping to run over 120mph.

Hope this helps.

Tommo.

hmm..talking to robbie ward (RIPS gtr specialist check youtube under rips) and spec performance (cars always feature in performance car magazines) they all reakon that the stock engine can handle way more then 350awkw without needing cam/head ,work on stock internals???? any thoughts????? i dont want to stuff my engine, but these guys highly regarded mechanics.......

Edited by donkey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202835-more-power/#findComment-3600170
Share on other sites

They use hub dynos in NZ whos figures arent the same as our chassis dyno's :)

So their 350 would be 320-310 here.

But there are enough people who have killed a stock RB26 with 350rwkw now (after 2-3 years) to know that they wont last forever.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202835-more-power/#findComment-3600180
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...