Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

then again i see you have 300 plus rwkw standard internals?

nope my motor is now fully forged pistons, rods cams etc u name it its got it....300rwkw on just 17psi

built by Willall Racing, Nisspeed, and tuned by Morpowa

i asked Boostworx who pays for it and they said i had to at my own expense, they really didn't care to be honest, im sure im not the only one here that has had grief with them....i guess im the first to speak up.

Your manifold, while it looks like its a pro job with the cut and shut, is a really really bad idea,since the runners are designed for air coming in at the normal throttle position, now you have the TB at the front... this means cylns 5-6 are less likely to get the same amount of air.

if you had the manifold on the motor when it blew up, i dare say it could have played a huge part in it.

Your manifold, while it looks like its a pro job with the cut and shut, is a really really bad idea,since the runners are designed for air coming in at the normal throttle position, now you have the TB at the front... this means cylns 5-6 are less likely to get the same amount of air.

if you had the manifold on the motor when it blew up, i dare say it could have played a huge part in it.

i guess i got another reason 2 blame boostworx 4 blowing up my motor because they are the place that did the cut n shut!!!!!!!!!!

i guess i got another reason 2 blame boostworx 4 blowing up my motor because they are the place that did the cut n shut!!!!!!!!!!

Who wanted the manifold like that??? Simon isn't saying the cut and shut was the problem, Think about where the inlet pipe goes standard........... In the middle, this is to make the air get dispenced evenly and appropriatly, not a crap load at the front and stuff all at the back!!

Just an update - I ended up going to Morpowa, glad I did as they sorted me out nicely. It definately needed a tune, cruising was fine so no problems with the O2 sensor, but the AFR's were for some reasons in the low 10's. We weren't quite sure why, as the car hadn't really changed since the last tune apart from a different catback Exhaust (still 3").

Regained 20rwkw with the new tune and hopefully this will fix the fuel economy issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...