Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. I just have a quick question that maybe someone will know whats going on.

I have installed two amps into my car, one for the speakers inside and one for the sub in the boot. I have wired the triggers (on signal) on both amps, up to the trigger on the head unit. This should then allow both amps to come on once the stereo is fired up.

If i turn the key ignition to the assessories position i can turn the stereo on and both amps come on as they should. Stereo works fine in this situation.

Okay, well if i go to now start my car, which causes the stereo to flick off and back on, one of my amps goes into Protection mode and wont work. Both amps are different brands. With the engine running i can then turn the head unit off, then straight back on again. After i do this, the amp that was in protection mode, starts to funciton correctly.

This happens everytime i start my car with the stereo already on before i turn the key to the start position. If i turn the head unit off then shut off the car and start it again. Then turn the head unit on, both amps work fine.

It is a bit annoying having to turn the head unit off and on all the time. I was thinking maybe a time delay circuit or something might fix the problem. I am thinking that when i start the car, there must be a bit of a spike in the current going thru the trigger wire to the amps. The cheaper crapper amp seems to not like this.

Can anyone suggest maybe what i should look at. I thought perhaps a Capacitor included in teh circuit there somewhere might take that edge off the power spike fixing the prob?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203055-amp-problem/
Share on other sites

you need a relay on the trigger lead.

find a 5 pin relay (jaycar DSE etc.) and wire in this fashion

85 - gnd

86 - radio trigger in

87 - +12 battery (from amp supply) via 5A fuse

30 - amplifers.

give that a burl.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203055-amp-problem/#findComment-3605872
Share on other sites

Sweet thanks mate. Yeah i will have to give this a go. But one of my amps is f!*ked now so i will have to buy a new one. I will do this if i have probs with the new amp.

u should check ur wiring becasue it sound like ur earth wire is lose if it still doing it try runing one earth wire for each amp and one power wire 4 each ampbut use 4g wiring 4 earth and power becuase one amp is taking to much power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203055-amp-problem/#findComment-3611185
Share on other sites

This is a very odd problem. Sounds like your HU could be faulty and it's not sending enough current to the amp in order to switch on the power supply. A feature of MOSFET amps is that if they dectect discrepancies in the switching line they shut off to prevent shorting exc.

Try hooking the remote wire up to your accessory line instead. This will solve the problem and will eliminate any delay from the HU signal. (if there is any)

The relay will also work, but would take much more effort to implement than this. You will have to attach the rem wire, power wire and an earth wire/lead to the relay. So you're going to have to hitch power from wires all over the place and run them to the relay. Can be a messy procedure.

I'd reccomend just hooking them up to your acc line. That way your switching power supply won't have any chance of being starved and it won't activate your protection mode.

Try doing this, if it still doesn't work speak to me again as you may have overloaded your ACC line!

Hope that helps!

Edited by Domenico
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203055-amp-problem/#findComment-3626437
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...