Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale I have a 1978 Datsun c210/240k skyline

Its powered by a L24 which was remanufactured 60,000 ago including remachined head and bottom end , it as sinse been rebuilt including new gaskets and macining about 10,000 ago

It as a stock Lsd diff and strong 3speed trans wich we're rebuilt 45,000 ago

The car has been sprayed and registered as black

It makes a few noises as any old car would but runs perfectly and starts first kick every time

Ignition as been converted from a points setup to a MSD electric Dizzy setup

Its running some sort of exaust system which was on the car wen i bought it , not sure wat it is but its farely loud down at low rpm

Carby as been rebuilt around 5,000kz ago gaining it better economy

This car as great turbo/drift potential and is easy to find performance parts as is same motor as 240z

I am asking 850neg and i am located near TTG in SA

send me a message if you are interested and i can email you pictures

I would also consider swap with cash adjustment for r31 ect....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203211-fs-sa-rare-c210-skyline/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have heard that this car is actually a Mitsubishi Sigma. Please confirm that this is not some kind of sick joke. Do you have a Skyline for sale or not?

By the way, the C210 and the 240K are two completely different cars, and neither came out with a stock LSD.

sorry this is off-topic means13... but looking at your email addy.....do you also have a DR30?? if you do and and in SA bring it out next cruise mine is getting lonely :(

  • 3 weeks later...

by the way things are going i mite be selling my C210 ,

80K with log books but heck knows if the KM are real

shes alright drives smooth as in engine / trans wise /

all she needs done is new tie rod and unbend a rear suspension arm but you mite as well just buy one

reason for selling , don't have the cash to fix it

i would be looking at about $1500 , but any $800 or whatever cash offer would do

pics can be found in the classic section

this is just out of interest if i cant get a job with in the next few weeks.

i bought the car for 2.5K but a few strings of unfortunate events have f*ked it up sigh , i love the car if it wasn't for the rear suspension arm and front tie rod i would never have the thought of selling it

by the way as i stated just out of interest

Edited by Rice_banger

I was the one which saw the sigma , i went there and there was no C210 , only a sigma 2.6 new school , i contacted the OP of the thread to confirm to everyone it was a waste of time / space and he said he lot password

by the way i just hijacked the thread above only out of interest.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...