Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm in the process of building my RB30DET, but am unsure what pistons to use. I'm using an RB25DE Neo Head. Has any got any info on RB30E, RB30ET, RB25DET, RB25DE, RB26DETT pistons, specifically deck heights and dome / dish cc volumes.

The Neo head has a smaller combustion chamber volume, which with the standard RB30E pistons it'll give me 10.45:1 compression ratio.. well that's what i've worked out :banana:

I'd love to know from someone that's built an RB30DET with a Neo Head what pistons they used and what CR they have.

Thanks.

im doing the same thing but with a NEO RB25DET. I would assume the cc on a turbo/na head would measure the same? The work shop is using CP pistons designed for the rb25/30 33 head. I wonder how they are going to get the desired comp ratio, being that its a smaller cc? And can anyone confirm if the neo exhaust valves are larger then the rb26?

I'm pretty sure the heads are the same bar the cams.

Pistons are what determines the compression ratio on the RB25's isn't it?

Yup, both RB25 neo heads cc around 50-51cc, both RB25 R33 Head are around 63cc.

The only difference in turbo and no turbo neo heads is the cams. Even the valve springs are the same (I thought they'd be different).

Good luck to me trying to find RB30ET pistons in NZ :glare:

im doing the same thing but with a NEO RB25DET. I would assume the cc on a turbo/na head would measure the same? The work shop is using CP pistons designed for the rb25/30 33 head. I wonder how they are going to get the desired comp ratio, being that its a smaller cc? And can anyone confirm if the neo exhaust valves are larger then the rb26?

I would be asking the workshop what they plan to do about this, as it will end up with around 10.5:1 compression

the pistons have been delivered and sent off to enginering along with rods crank etc. I mentoined that the head had smaller cc but i am no mechanic and want to interfer with their jobs. But there are other ways to bring down the comp ratio? Eg: head gasket size and decking of head and block?

Also any particular reason why nissan designed the head to be smaller cc? disadvantages/advantages?

Edited by drgnball34
the pistons have been delivered and sent off to enginering along with rods crank etc. I mentoined that the head had smaller cc but i am no mechanic and want to interfer with their jobs. But there are other ways to bring down the comp ratio? Eg: head gasket size and decking of head and block?

Also any particular reason why nissan designed the head to be smaller cc? disadvantages/advantages?

decking of head and block will increases comp ratio. Removing quench / squish areas in the head will decrease comp ratio (but has associated advantages and disavantages depending on application and in some instances induce knock at lower timing values than the higher comp high quench setup). see below pic of 26 head with quench area removed;

post-34927-1201529808_thumb.jpg

IMO if this workshop is worth their salt they will get a burette and cc the chambers first up . I think it would be highly irresponsible to build a customers engine with aftermarket pistons and not be certain what the static compression ratio was going to be .

Just for the record I'm sure many here would like to KNOW for certain if R33 and R34 chambers are same or different volume . It sounds like some are guessing without knowing for sure .

Cheers A .

So if im running a Neo head (series two stageas run Neos) i should run the RB30ET pistons from ACL, but use say a 1.5mm head gasket to drop the compression?

I will be running a max of 15-17 PSI, through a largish turbo. Aiming for 350kw with supporting mods.

I would do that with maybe a 1.2mm H/G, dont drop the comp much as youll mess with the piston/head clearnace. BUT you need to cc everything, dont go on what ive said, as rb30et pistons vary, and the head may have been decked(mine or yours) at some time which will effect the result.

I am using ACL RB30ET pistons - comp ratio is 8.5:1 with Std Nissan Headgasket.

I am about to build a new bottom end as I want more compression, so will be using Cp pistons.

CP make 2 pistons for the RB30/25/26 ( With R33 head ). So there 8.2:1 piston will come in very close to 9.0:1 with the NEO head - Ill cc everything to confirm but current calculations are around 9.0:1.

I am using ACL RB30ET pistons - comp ratio is 8.5:1 with Std Nissan Headgasket.

I am about to build a new bottom end as I want more compression, so will be using Cp pistons.

Any reason why you want more compression?

Is the car a bit of a dog off boost even though its a 3l?

I want to built one, but I'm not sure what compression I would run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...