Jump to content
SAU Community

Ticking Noise From Dash On Startup

nuclear_skyline

By nuclear_skyline,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
Posted

Hi All ye' Learned People!

Each time I start my r33 series 2 GTST a ticking noise comes from under the dash, on the passenger side of the middle. It doesn't matter if the car is warm, e.g. drive for 30mins turn off the re-start or if I turn the car on and off from cold.

I dont know if its something in the airconditioner pipes or if its the airbag initialising... If I turn the aircon off (and fans off) the noise is still there... So I dont think its in the pipes...

Anybody had anything similar???

Thanks

Thomas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203548-ticking-noise-from-dash-on-startup/
Share on other sites
lighty01 Collaborator

lighty01

Posted
Posted

have u installed a fmic reciently? did they disconnect your aircon fan?

im pretty sure thats y the ticking is there. must be some kind of warning because mine only started doing that when i dc my aircon fan. if i connect it back it stops ( but the fan does not fit so i have to d/c it again)

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it ticks for maybe 10-20sec on startup... had a fmic installed 5000km ago, but the ticking has only been there the past 500km. do you mean the fan up front near the radiator/intrcooler of the one inside the cabin for the heater core?

waza Collaborator

waza

Posted
Posted (edited)

i use have the same problem with my old r33 gts, want to know what i did??

i got a r33 25t Ahahahah :P

im quite sure it has something to do with the air con. thats where i found the source of the

noise. unsure of how to fix it sorry

Edited by waza
nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well i'm happier thinking thats its a leaf in a pipe then a ticking bomb of a airbag :)

zNow I just have to figure out how to get into the pipes and check.

does anyone know if the aircon units on the s2 r33 have a filter?

inthisglass Grand Master

inthisglass

Posted
Posted

was covered in another tread somewhere

the gear that opens and closes one of the valves in the air con system is buggered. so when the gear turns it slips and makes the noise.

very common in r33's and the only way to fix it is to take the dash out so most people don't worry about it as its too much work to get rid of 10 seconds of ticking that doesn't really do any harm.

Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
Posted

Yep, as above, that noise is the broken gears in the aircon position servo motor sliding over each other

With the aircon off, just press the red/hot up button forever until you think its at the 28max and it wont happen until outside temp goes above it

To access the filter, you have to remove the glovebox. To the right of that theres a panel that you can remove and the aircon filters will just fall out. Order replacements from Japan or just clean using compressed air. Will also get rid of the aircon stink - mine were pitch black

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well the nasty problem is becoming worse. It only happened before when I started the car, now its happening when I change anything with the aircon :wave:

Has anyone tried to replace the motor? Location advice?

very common in r33's and the only way to fix it is to take the dash out so most people don't worry about it as its too much work to get rid of 10 seconds of ticking that doesn't really do any harm.

Anyone with advice on how to take the dash out?

Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
Posted

Its not actually the motor, its like the gear teeth so its even simpler and cheaper to fix (dont u just hate that). Its just the dash thats the hard bit - you'll need half a day just to pull it out.

There are a few links to tutorials on how to take it out. Do a search, but not long ago someone had the proper name and part number for the bit

Just make sure the temperature is maxed to hot (yes u can press the button whilst its off) before u start it up and u shouldnt be able to here it

nuclear_skyline Mentor

nuclear_skyline

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just make sure the temperature is maxed to hot (yes u can press the button whilst its off) before u start it up and u shouldnt be able to here it

Interesting. Must spin the gear around to the point where is aint stripped....

So if i have the gear at max. hot, then turn it down when I turn the car on, will I hear it then?

NA_Goodness Grand Master

NA_Goodness

Posted
Posted
With the aircon off, just press the red/hot up button forever until you think its at the 28max and it wont happen until outside temp goes above it

This is Australia, it is ALWAYS above 28*C!! At least it is over here in sunny Perth!

  • 2 weeks later...
Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
Posted

Theoretically yes, but I dont seem to notice it after the cars started

Think of it as a stepper motor that doesnt turn 360*. It isnt the gear teeth in the motor, its on an arm that moves backwards and forwards that controls the hot/cold air mix.

The motor/gearset were talking about i think is called the blend servo motor

jaxr33 Rookie

jaxr33

Posted
Posted

My r33 has the same problem but goes away after a few secs. I was told by my mech. that it was only the a/c trying to find the "home position" for the automatic climate control. My a/c still works excellent and changes through all the modes; face/feet, demist, floor etc. etc. It apparently is a "home Sensor" problem. I cant be bothered pulling the dash apart to fix a noise that lasts 5 secs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...