Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: HKS cast low mount manifold suit rb20/25, t3 flange

Age: Unknown, bought second hand 2 years ago

Condition: reasonable, manifold has a bit of residue from oil and wd40 from removal, some studs need replacing. It has a crack in the internal divider thats been there since i bought it but no external cracking. The mounting faces could do with a skim

Price: $850 ono now $550 ono

To Fit: Was fitted to an r32gtst with rb25.

Location: Eagle Vale NSW

Contact: by pm. prefer local buyer so that you can make an inspection prior to purchase

Comments: I've sold the turbo, pipes and wastegate, I'm a little surprised that everything else has sold and not this :(

Anyway, here's some pics of the bits.

post-2863-1201594112_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Dave

Edited by BHDave
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203649-hks-cast-low-mount-manifold-rb2025/
Share on other sites

I can vouch for this setup, pulls very hard.

I swear Dave if you had this up a week ago i might have jumped on it, but i just spent lots of time and money redoing all the gaskets around the stock turbo/manifold :)

How come you're getting rid of the manifold? Going high mount? Will be interesting to see how the 3071 compares.

Good luck with the sale, shouldn't take long. (apologies for the useless post :()

Edited by govich

Thanks mate.

Only made the decision this afternoon. I figured i could sacrifice a bit of top end for a bit more bottom to midrange with improved transient response that comes with bb turbos and simplify the whole lot by going a proper garrett IW housing on the stock manifold. It's also a bit less weight over the front wheels and water cooled which can only be a benefit on the track.

I got the same setup about to go into my R32 and these manifolds are an awesome design.

Just wondering if you will sell that dump pipe separately, as my kit is missing a dump pipe.

PM me if you will ;)

Edited by abu

Abu, i've sent a pm. I don't really want to separate but i will consider separating the dump and wastegate pipe as i can't see it effecting the sale of the rest of the kit too much (especially for r33 owners). We can chat via pm.

Daryl, at this stage no, but by all means send me a pm and make an offer if you'd like. At the end of the day I can see me getting stuck with the turbo and no interest i if go down that path though.

Now $1,800.00 ono

I'm reaching a point where I'm willing to separate, so if you are after the manifold only or manifold and gate, send me a pm and we'll chat.

Just the one in the internal splitter mentioned in the first post.

I'll send you a pm later on with price and a pic if you'd like when i get home

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...