Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Cast Low Mount Manifold Rb20/25

BHDave
 Share

Recommended Posts

**RB2530** Proficient

**RB2530**

Posted
Posted
Just the one in the internal splitter mentioned in the first post.

I'll send you a pm later on with price and a pic if you'd like when i get home

Just some info for everyone..

I run the same manifold and they are excellent. Mine also has the crack in the internal splitter web. It was there when I bought it (2nd hand) and I checked it (after about 25,000 kms of use) about 3-4 months ago (fitted GT3076R) and it had not grown or changed at all..

It must be a common thing with this casting as the web is very thin..the rest of the manifold is very heavy wall and I cant see how the crack on mine could grow anymore...esp in Cast Iron

So what I am saying is dont worry about the crack...

And no I am not a friend of "BHDave"...

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
  • Author
Posted
interested in the turbo mate you willing to ship to WA

i'll need the wastegate to run it on my rb20 won't I

Gday mate,

I can post to WA, send me a pm and we'll chat.

Yep, you'd need a wastegate to run it as it isn't internally gated

cheers

Dave

phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
Posted

Just thought I'd give some input on the T300 as not many people have heard of it.

I run one on my SR and it's a great turbo. Comes on strong and made 242rwkw's on 1.4Bar on a bog stock engine.

Good luck with the sale mate.

Dane

bloodsword27 Veteran

bloodsword27

Posted
Posted

sh1tvers....where was my mind a month ago? woulda bought the whole setup off ya for my 25...ugg.....any idea on how much the T300 is brand new? wana weigh up cost of that plus everything else u got here and whether it fits my budget :turned:

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't know that they are still available new.

In your case i'd be inclined to get a current gen 3071 or 3076 for around $1800-2000 as the t300 is pretty old tech. Worked brilliantly for what it was though. You may be able to pick up a similar spec t3/4 for a lot less than the current gen gear but i'd have no idea on a price.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

bump, and price drop, $450 delivery extra

what the hell happened to the edit button in my old posts! can't change the thread title!

Edited by BHDave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...