Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:

RB26DETT Head

Taken from R33 GTR

Head is complete with inlet manifold, injectors, front cover, cam covers, CAS, valve train, cams exhaust manifolds, coil packs with wiring.

Age:

1997 GTR

Condition:

Good

Price:

$2500 firm, buyers collects or pays freight.

To Fit: (What car)

RB26 or RB30 block

Location:

North Sydney

Contact:

PM

Comments:

PM for pics. Serious buyers only.

DONT ASK FOR PICS IF YOU ARE NOT INTERESTED IN BUYING THE HEAD

Edited by [200]
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203792-rb26-head-sold/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I dont wanna separate it actually.

I dont want to be left with parts that I will never sell.

Seems like everyone wants a bit something for nothing.

Looks like you'll be keeping it then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203792-rb26-head-sold/#findComment-3745376
Share on other sites

You have to be f**king kidding me.

I said in the post before you even posted that I was selling it whole - what do you think that meant?

Do you honestly think that I would take out most of the valve train just to sell this thing to you? I bet you would be a 2 buck flamin mongrel and only offer peanuts for it anyway!

Seriously, get a life moron.

Edited by [200]
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203792-rb26-head-sold/#findComment-3745803
Share on other sites

You have to be f**king kidding me.

I said in the post before you even posted that I was selling it whole - what do you think that meant?

Do you honestly think that I would take out most of the valve train just to sell this thing to you? I bet you would be a 2 buck flamin mongrel and only offer peanuts for it anyway!

Seriously, get a life moron.

When i said bare head with cams, i meant the head with all the valve train, including cams, and maybe the covers depending on the price you wanted. The only things i dont want are intake and exhaust hardware.

Maybe you changed your mind in regards to selling it seperately, how the fcuk do i know if i dont ask? You also said $2500 firm (lol) in your original post, but changed your mind to $2200, so it is possible to change your mind. You're a fcukwit Paul.

Edited by Shaun
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203792-rb26-head-sold/#findComment-3746252
Share on other sites

Yep, if someone other then Shaun is interested let me know.

122,

Let me know exactly what you want on the intake side. I would be happy to sell that with the spark plug cover. If I cannot sell the head by itself then I will just buy a hypertune inlet manifold and build my motor later...

Edited by [200]
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203792-rb26-head-sold/#findComment-3747282
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...