Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

im importing a 1995 r33 gtst and i want to no whos the cheapest in complying them im from melb and my dads an importer so he knows alot of people that comply them but they are all asking $2000 for a plate does anyone no were i can get it done cheaper?

thanks hopefully someone can help me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203818-r33-compliance-whos-the-cheapest/
Share on other sites

$2.000 is pretty good man, I think you will be lucky to find it any cheaper.

You would be better off paying the 2k and giving it to a good reputable shop to have the work done properly, at least that way you know it's all good when you get it back.

But as cheez said, Dennis at JAP CAR does a good job.

Edited by abu

$2,000 is a good price assuming it includes GST, brake pads, DOTARS application fee, etc ... most places have been charging around $2,200 ($2,000 plus GST) but there are a few offering as little as $1,750 or $1,800 including GST but you have to be careful when you shop arond based on price alone as you may end up with lots of 'additional costs' like new battery, fuel, AC levy, etc. and might cost more in the long run.

I would suggest going with a place that has been recommended by others at a reasonable price, and just make sure you get a quote in writing from them stating exactly what is included and what additonal costs they might charge on top.

and just make sure you get a quote in writing from them stating exactly what is included and what additonal costs they might charge on top.

Yep forgot to add that part, its essential you get a quote in writing as you may get over-charged.

I ended u paying more as the compliance shop insisted they quoted me more after I confirmed with them on numerous occasions... doesn't matter now but I was pissed off bad at the time.

Its best you get a quote in writing so you have something to back up the price you were quoted.

Edited by abu

curious why you are even bothering importing one?

there are over 1000 skylines for sale on carpoint etc - youd be mad to bother importing one

there would be literally hundreds of GTST's in melbourne for sale so you can full inspect, drive, test etc

Yup, 33's are the same price.

Tires are up to you, we have spare parts (tires, exhaust, etc.) that we fit for compliance for free, and swap back for free, no problem.

obviously aftermarket intercoolers are a problem, since they cut holes in the body (usually....ARC is an exception I believe), so call us first if this is the case. accident cars are no-go also, obviously.

You'll need tires for RWC, but you can get them at Beau Repairs, it's all the same to us.

Watch out for other workshops overcharging you for tires.....one of many tricks of the trade.

Jon handles all the compliance stuff, so give him a call if you're interested, or come in during the week to chat...we're at 4 York St. Richmond, VIC 3121.

cheers,

david @ carizma

Maybe try Carizma.

I was told $2000 for my R34 GTR.

Possibly cheaper for an R33 (assuming they do it.)

Yup, 33's are the same price.

Tires are up to you, we have spare parts (tires, exhaust, etc.) that we fit for compliance for free, and swap back for free, no problem.

obviously aftermarket intercoolers are a problem, since they cut holes in the body (usually....ARC is an exception I believe), so call us first if this is the case. accident cars are no-go also, obviously.

You'll need tires for RWC, but you can get them at Beau Repairs, it's all the same to us.

Watch out for other workshops overcharging you for tires.....one of many tricks of the trade.

Jon handles all the compliance stuff, so give him a call if you're interested, or come in during the week to chat...we're at 4 York St. Richmond, VIC 3121.

cheers,

david @ carizma

Hey guys,

I can recommend Carizma, picked up my R33 GTS-T from them on Monday. Very easy to deal with.

These guys know what they are doing! - Check out their showroom.

Compliance was $2000 - I'd be happy to pay this amount again knowing i wont have any problems later on.

Jon answered all my questions and was happy to chat.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...