Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ooh they look familiar but i cant place the name. its def one of the bigger jap brands tho. btw i've been looking 4 that pic for a while now. thnx :wave:

LOL glad to be of assistance. Just found out they are AVS (Advan), now just gotta figure who can get them for me hmmm...

http://www.gruppe-s.com/Advan/advant7.htm

Hey guys,

these are the rims im after or sumthin very similar for my R33. Who knos what brand & style they are? Also where can I get them in Adel or Australia even? Thanks in advanced >_<

they may be different but :banana: very similar

two closest wheels I can find are the Prodrive GG-07's

gc_07c_g02.jpg

and the JIC force 7's...

jicforce7.jpg

You'll be able to find the Prodrives easy enough, but the JIC's are gonna be a pain.

and agree with Danny/Shy S6. Ugly wheels. Can get MUCH better.

What car are you putting them on? Your S2 R33?

Edited by R31 drift pig
two closest wheels I can find are the Prodrive GG-07's

gc_07c_g02.jpg

and the JIC force 7's...

jicforce7.jpg

You'll be able to find the Prodrives easy enough, but the JIC's are gonna be a pain.

and agree with Danny/Shy S6. Ugly wheels. Can get MUCH better.

What car are you putting them on? Your S2 R33?

Ugly wheels lol...dang we sure have diff opinions! I am fitting to my S2 R33 yes, was aiming for the R34 GTR's but thought id like to get sumthin diff as they are becoming more & more common.

Personally, I dont like the multispoke "Out to the lip" Design. I just think there's a lot better wheels you can put on a 33.

And for the price you're gonna pay for the prodrives/JIC's, you can get a lot better set 2nd hand.

What kind of fitment do you want? Sunken? Flush? Slightly mexican? What kind of guard work? Roll? Roll and slight flare? Heavy flare? overfender?

all of this is going to play a part in how good you wheels and your car look.

These are some of the wheels i think look great on a 33

R33 GTR (Must be slammed to look good though)

Picture%20017.jpg

R34 GTR

Picture%20008.jpg

Volk GT-C's in top secret Gold

GT-CNew.jpg

SSR Sp1's

SSR18.jpg

DT05R's in 18's..

DT05R_18_white_lrg.jpg

or if you want multispokes...

Gravity Gulflames...

Gravity_3.jpg

Most of these wheels are Under $2000 a set, and come in good offsets and widths.

Just some food for thought.

:D

Edited by R31 drift pig

Im a fan myself. Look great on the 31..... except I just forked out a shitload for custom 4 stud wheels, and CBF'd converting to 5 stud.

And they're waaaaay too poo offset for the guards I have to fill.

And R34 Wheels are still one of the hottest wheels ever made.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...