Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

try the consolidated workshop thread

x-speed top racing hyperdrive etc should be ale to help you out

Thanks bro. I don't want to buy parts through xspeed there too expensive. I just need a little advise on where to buy good parts. Ill be picking up the car on sat morning it's coming on a train. I will post some pics..

As per my signature block give Jamie a call or email him as to what he thinks you should use as he worked on a lot at Abbey Motor Sport in the UK, another point with Jamie is since he does not retail the parts he will be less bias to certain manufactures.

Work out what you need then email suppliers in one hit, if you get a few parts from one person you should expect a discount.

Hi everyone I just purchased a R34 gtr vspec and I want to modify it. I want to make 330 kw at all four wheels, so can anyone give me some advise on what turbo's to use ,injectors, cams etc. Where is a good place to order parts for it.

Thanks Jason

hks gt2530 or hks gt-ss

nismo 740cc injectors

power fc

nismo afm or similar (or if u go the djetro pfc u wont need them)

hard piping kit

turbo back exhuast

ebc (can recommended blitz sbc-id3 )

aftermarket clutch (i have a preference for nismo twin plate)

intercooler

got some cash left off buy some good brake pads and disc and some good tyres and you should be flying >_<

edit: places to find the parts at some good pricers try

www.greenline.jp

www.nengun.com

yahoo auction

etc etc

Edited by [Michael]
Don't bother about a front mount and spend the cash on a nice fuel pump, 2530's are good of gtrs, my 2530's are making over 360kw

wasn''t too sure if the stock cooler could handle that power so i just added it in there for just in case. buy good point on the fuel pump totally forgot about that

got some cash left off buy some good brake pads and disc and some good tyres and you should be flying :banana:

You inbred, learn to spell/punctuate already! >_<

If you have some cash left over, buy some good brake pads and disc's, some good tyres, and you should be flying :w00t:

Fixed.

get some injectors while youre there

Sard 700s are probably the way to go since you dont want to pay top dollar

Check out www.greenline.jp for some cheap stuff from japan that arrives fairly quickly.

Or theres sliding performance on this website that do stuff at great prices!

There's one other thing whats the stock boost on the r34 gtr? Imk asking this because when i tried to rev out 1st gear at about 4500 rpm it felt and sounded like i was hitting rev limiter, I was watching the boost gauge and it got to almost 1 bar. Im not sure if it was fuel cut of if the car was missing??

Modding it already and you havent even picked it up >_< , isnt the thing fast enough as it is for the time being lol?

But your looking at quite a bit more than 8k because your probably going to want good name brands for such a nice car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...