Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

While idling the engine 'blips', just a lumpy idle really. I did a bit of research and found it could be a problem with the RB25 throttle position sensor. Is there a connection?

I cleaned my AAC valve and AFM but didn't fix anything.

Any advice?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/
Share on other sites

good old nissans...never idle properly.

could be coils, plugs, tps.

I've done plugs recently. So that leaves coils and TPS.

I read the "tape your coils" thread, so i'll give that a try.

What are the possibilities it's the TPS?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3623126
Share on other sites

Yeh i'll reset the ECU, though i doubt it'll fix it.

My rpm's aren't affected but i can feel the engine vibrate, even with music pumping (no sub :blink: ).

I'm guessing there's some magical thing i've missed that needs cleaning/fixing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3624070
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

this is what mine does, is it sorta the same thing? i also cleaned aac valve, regapped plugs and cleaned afm but nothing helped. My next try will involve dumping it at a workshop and praying they can fix it!

http://youtube.com/watch?v=02Cyv2CWqDU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3747226
Share on other sites

My car was idleing like that just after i fitted the new turbo that had a .7 comp housing and still managed to have the stock afm attached thanks to some attachments. 2 days later i fitted the Z32 afm and a retune and now it idles fine...

Maybe its the air flow meter if u havent touched anything recently?!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3747824
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

yeah, mines doing the same thing..and i thinks it getting worst!!!

(MODS)

i drive a r33 s2 skyline..

i got a hks exhaust, 3A Racing POD, FMIC,greddy ATMO bov, splitfire coilpacks, re-gapped ngk iridiums plugs to 0.8,

boosted up too..running on 12psi, and got an ApEXI NEO (and had tuned twice)

(ISSUES + CURRENT PROBLEM)

and now im getting really bad flat spots, bad idle etc.. lol and hunting issues again..which wer all gone..

but now everything is back at once..lol

(WHAT I"VE TRIED)

plus ive tried cleaning throttle body, intake manifold with forton carby cleaner(the best stuff u can get)

cleaned the IACV(the 3 bolts that are on the end of the manifold) took it off and gave it a good clean etc..

but yeah evan sprayed vac line that gone down to the IACV.. tryed cleaning afm with electrical contact cleaner too..

(MAIN PROBLEM)

idle issues wen starting the car are now gone..but yeah

hunting issues wen clutch in/etc..

revs drop down to like just under 500rpms...and then from there it will start hunting..

only sometimes it will do this...usually it will go back up to 1100rpms..but other time it will hunt..

it like it trying to prevent itself from stalling..???

hunting pretty bad...

(APEXI NEO - DEC AIR SETTING ISSUE)

i've looked on my setting on the apexi neo..

the DEC AIR SETTING isnt turned on, i believe...it say's off,

and then i cant turn it on,(its not anon/off type select...

it goes and changes to %..and starts from 0%..s wer do i put it too???

so yeah, a bit confused....

so anybody now u to use this setting??

and do u reckon a z32 afm and new fuel pump + a re-tune will help???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3773109
Share on other sites

i reckon get rid of ya atmo bov and it prob will solve ya problem

the bov is fine..and ive had it for months..no problems..the second time i got my car tune..i fixed the bov

problem...so i dont think its related..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3773152
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

there are a few known causes of idling style issues. dirty contacts (AFM or TPS), worn out valves (AAC valve), and other wear style issues (wiring, coil packs etc).

these would typically result in unstable idle, fluctuating idle, or blipping style idling - the r33 service manual would list several fixes and corrective measures for this, you should download it and have a read

the engine rpm dropping to 500rpm (almost stalling) on clutch in is usually associated with an atmo bov

its been covered to death over a 100 times, its always usually the atmo bov, it dumps air that the AFM has already measured

so the mixture is out of scale, as the air is missing so the engine overstalls and rpm's plummet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3845075
Share on other sites

would a atmo-plump-back type bov fix this problem???

lik i have the choose to make ot plumb-back and atmo..

coz on my 33 now ive got a greddy type rs atmo bov..

which has an a key on the top to adjust the spring inside...

mit adjust that abit harder and c how i go...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3847652
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...