Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle Issue

R338OY

By R338OY,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted

While idling the engine 'blips', just a lumpy idle really. I did a bit of research and found it could be a problem with the RB25 throttle position sensor. Is there a connection?

I cleaned my AAC valve and AFM but didn't fix anything.

Any advice?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/
Share on other sites
R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
good old nissans...never idle properly.

could be coils, plugs, tps.

I've done plugs recently. So that leaves coils and TPS.

I read the "tape your coils" thread, so i'll give that a try.

What are the possibilities it's the TPS?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3623126
Share on other sites
R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh i'll reset the ECU, though i doubt it'll fix it.

My rpm's aren't affected but i can feel the engine vibrate, even with music pumping (no sub :blink: ).

I'm guessing there's some magical thing i've missed that needs cleaning/fixing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3624070
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
delljit Community Regular

delljit

Posted
Posted

this is what mine does, is it sorta the same thing? i also cleaned aac valve, regapped plugs and cleaned afm but nothing helped. My next try will involve dumping it at a workshop and praying they can fix it!

http://youtube.com/watch?v=02Cyv2CWqDU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3747226
Share on other sites
series2r33 Collaborator

series2r33

Posted
Posted

My car was idleing like that just after i fitted the new turbo that had a .7 comp housing and still managed to have the stock afm attached thanks to some attachments. 2 days later i fitted the Z32 afm and a retune and now it idles fine...

Maybe its the air flow meter if u havent touched anything recently?!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3747824
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
bumble_bee Rising Star

bumble_bee

Posted
Posted

yeah, mines doing the same thing..and i thinks it getting worst!!!

(MODS)

i drive a r33 s2 skyline..

i got a hks exhaust, 3A Racing POD, FMIC,greddy ATMO bov, splitfire coilpacks, re-gapped ngk iridiums plugs to 0.8,

boosted up too..running on 12psi, and got an ApEXI NEO (and had tuned twice)

(ISSUES + CURRENT PROBLEM)

and now im getting really bad flat spots, bad idle etc.. lol and hunting issues again..which wer all gone..

but now everything is back at once..lol

(WHAT I"VE TRIED)

plus ive tried cleaning throttle body, intake manifold with forton carby cleaner(the best stuff u can get)

cleaned the IACV(the 3 bolts that are on the end of the manifold) took it off and gave it a good clean etc..

but yeah evan sprayed vac line that gone down to the IACV.. tryed cleaning afm with electrical contact cleaner too..

(MAIN PROBLEM)

idle issues wen starting the car are now gone..but yeah

hunting issues wen clutch in/etc..

revs drop down to like just under 500rpms...and then from there it will start hunting..

only sometimes it will do this...usually it will go back up to 1100rpms..but other time it will hunt..

it like it trying to prevent itself from stalling..???

hunting pretty bad...

(APEXI NEO - DEC AIR SETTING ISSUE)

i've looked on my setting on the apexi neo..

the DEC AIR SETTING isnt turned on, i believe...it say's off,

and then i cant turn it on,(its not anon/off type select...

it goes and changes to %..and starts from 0%..s wer do i put it too???

so yeah, a bit confused....

so anybody now u to use this setting??

and do u reckon a z32 afm and new fuel pump + a re-tune will help???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3773109
Share on other sites
bumble_bee Rising Star

bumble_bee

Posted
Posted

i reckon get rid of ya atmo bov and it prob will solve ya problem

the bov is fine..and ive had it for months..no problems..the second time i got my car tune..i fixed the bov

problem...so i dont think its related..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3773152
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

there are a few known causes of idling style issues. dirty contacts (AFM or TPS), worn out valves (AAC valve), and other wear style issues (wiring, coil packs etc).

these would typically result in unstable idle, fluctuating idle, or blipping style idling - the r33 service manual would list several fixes and corrective measures for this, you should download it and have a read

the engine rpm dropping to 500rpm (almost stalling) on clutch in is usually associated with an atmo bov

its been covered to death over a 100 times, its always usually the atmo bov, it dumps air that the AFM has already measured

so the mixture is out of scale, as the air is missing so the engine overstalls and rpm's plummet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3845075
Share on other sites
bumble_bee Rising Star

bumble_bee

Posted
Posted

would a atmo-plump-back type bov fix this problem???

lik i have the choose to make ot plumb-back and atmo..

coz on my 33 now ive got a greddy type rs atmo bov..

which has an a key on the top to adjust the spring inside...

mit adjust that abit harder and c how i go...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204062-idle-issue/#findComment-3847652
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      G'day!

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      Consider a 35 too...
    • dbm7
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By dbm7 路 Posted

      He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • GTSBoy
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
脳
脳
  • Create New...