Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Steve-o I don't think you're going to get outa jail that easily mate. You might. but there's a "but".......

All caps- be it mains, big-end or in your case cam caps are a "machined fit". Meaning, in this case, a set of caps are fitted to the head (slightly under-sized) & then line-bored to both "true" the alignment & set the appropriate clearance. It's not just a case of throwing another #2 at it & she'll be right unfortunately........

Having said that I have in the past gone thru collections of odd cam caps to replace a missing one on bike engines. Strip out the valves on the appropriate bank (without losing anything else :rolleyes: ), lay in the cam & start the process-of-elimination by fitting each avail spare cap & then rotating the cam by hand to get a "feel" of whether it's too tight, too loose or just right 'til you find one that will do the job. I knew a girl like that once.......

If the head's already on the motor & buttoned-up, then it all gets a bit more complicated. There are right ways, there are wrong ways & my above suggestion, whilst not technically correct, is somewhere in between. It's your engine, only you can decide what you want to do. BTW to get a "feel" of what's right wrong or otherwise, fit up one of the existing caps, give it a spin & no you can't use this method with the valves/springs in place. If they are, you could try & plasti-gauge the cap in question but I personally have never done this on cam caps under tension from valve springs so I can't comment either way.

I'm assuming you don't have access to a shop or proper measuring equipment either in all of the above.

Good Luck & let us all know how you go.

yeah, it's even more crucial on an L6 as the cams are so long. plenty of RB26/5/0s out there with snapped cams even just from not being torqued up quite right or in the right order. wrong sized cap will be a problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
    • Given it happened suddenly, and when you come on boost, I'd check all your inlet - hose clamps in place and no split rubber or silicone hoses. Even the hard to get to ones near the intercooler. It's possible air that went past the air flow meter is being dumped out a big hole.
×
×
  • Create New...