My 800 Crank Rb25 Project

[shanef]

have fun with it, your going to encounter some major headaches before your finished

[ReganGTS25T]

Repeat, sorry

Edited February 3, 2008 by ReganGTS25T

[ReganGTS25T]

Repeat, sorry

Edited February 3, 2008 by ReganGTS25T

[ReganGTS25T]

Edited February 3, 2008 by ReganGTS25T

[ReganGTS25T]

how much does a dry setup run for you guys down here its not to expensive i can buy a slightly used setup for about 1200 with the sump fabrication, im in peru man aeroquip fitings are made here, stainless steel meshed lines all made here , i hear it costs you guys about 7000 dollers to repair an engine in machine shop costs, down here ive go it all done for 400 dollers, how much do you guys think it cost me to put a 1ggte in my ae86(2.0 twin turbo inline 6) cost me 300 dollers painted with intercooler piping ran a 12.3 with that car(ofcourse i have to guide them a little bit but man a1 work), diffrent worlds, here profesional labor is super cheap minimum wage is 200 dollers a month, a flow tested port in polish and 5 angle valve job cost me 380 dollers, but i honestly dont think ill have lubrication problems

Edited February 3, 2008 by ReganGTS25T

[ReganGTS25T]

Repeat, sorry

Edited February 3, 2008 by ReganGTS25T

[ReganGTS25T]

who spun that? maybe im outta the loop but i can get a jun pump for under a grand but have no chance of doing a dry sump arrangement for under a grand.... maybe my supplier is jibbing me

just curious how much do you get a jun pump for, in the states the greddy is at 1000, the nismo 1 is at 1200

Edited February 3, 2008 by ReganGTS25T

[N1GTR]

bent fuel rail

How did the last owner manage to do that?

[ReganGTS25T]

How did the last owner manage to do that?

im the first owner of the car the importer's mechanic did that when the car didnt want to start lol, i guss he was trying to take the fuel rail out without taking 1 of the screws or something like that lol, its either that or they used it to hit some 1 lol

[N1GTR]

Hahaha

[Rezlo]

i would be more concerned about head lifting and and main caps walking ... before you put the sump on fit some ARP main studs or else the rods and so forth are a wasted excersise...

Have you ever had problems with ARP mains in the RB's when torqueing to ARP spec's?

Ive had loads of problems with them in SR20's pulling the block slightly and causing crank bind and finding people in South Africa to line bore SR20's is a real challange, left me with sour taste especialy when you have to grind 2 of them down so it doesnt crack the oil pan. I normaly use all their studs besides the mains, but with my RB I will need to upgrade but I really dont want to line bore a 11 000km old motor.

[STATUS]

Have you ever had problems with ARP mains in the RB's when torqueing to ARP spec's?

Ive had loads of problems with them in SR20's pulling the block slightly and causing crank bind and finding people in South Africa to line bore SR20's is a real challange, left me with sour taste especialy when you have to grind 2 of them down so it doesnt crack the oil pan. I normaly use all their studs besides the mains, but with my RB I will need to upgrade but I really dont want to line bore a 11 000km old motor.

from memory it is 65ft/lbs..... which is not real tight. The only issues with SR's and ARP's is the fact the alloy middle sump sump section fouls and requires the removal of 3-mm off the top of those two ARP studs.

im doing another as we speak.